Klingons on the starboard bow
14:05.41N 60:57.78W Thurs 27th, Fri 28th, Sat 29th,
Sun 30th and Monday 31st Jan Thursday and Friday evenings involved a bit of competitive
boat inspecting, with Goran and Helene from Ellen coming on board Serafina for
drinks, armed with a camera! Goran is a self confessed lover of stainless steel
and his boat has had huge amounts of additions and jobs done by Timo who is the
star stainless man who usually does work for Najad, Hallberg Rassy and Malo
yachts back where they are all built on the island of Orust in Sweden.
Goran’s main interest though was our bimini and the gantry at the back
and he studied every detail with the very definite plan to have his own very
weak bimini replaced as soon as practical. We had a great evening and
they had news on all sorts of people we knew and since their home waters are
the islands around Henan we were able to relate well to their stories. On Friday it was the return match and suddenly I realised
why they had seemed fairly unimpressed with one or two of the items I had been
proudly showing to them on Serafina. Their boat is nominally the same as ours
and just one year older, but it is different in so many ways. Certainly there
were twinges of envy as we were shown round, but I guess this works all the
time, both ways. Anyway they were of course wonderful hosts and we had a second
very entertaining evening. On Saturday we finally tore ourselves away from the marina
berth and headed out into Rodney Bay to sit on the anchor while we wait for the
new dinghy to arrive and to enjoy the peace and quiet that comes at anchor. The
breeze is fresher and the turquoise blue water invites you to spend lots of
time swimming, which is about the only real exercise we get and so far out here
we have done almost none at all. It was while swimming on Saturday that I began
to inspect our hull a bit closer after the trip over and as expected found
barnacles etc round the stern and on the aft hull sections where the hull is
contact with the water when sailing but does not have antifouling paint
applied. But on the bow, just below the water, I found limpets growing which
was a surprise to me as you wonder how they get to grab onto a vessel slicing
through the water! Presumably they started life when we were in a marina in the
Canaries perhaps? We were just contemplating the next stage of our travels
without Scott-Free around anymore, when they duly appeared and anchored about
40 metres away. At some stage soon we will be parting company! Rodney Bay and St Lucia in general have had a chequered
history of ownership. For centuries the French and English fought each other
over these islands and St Lucia changed flag 14 times in 150 years. The British
eventually prevailed here and Pigeon Island and Rodney Bay became the home of a
British Fleet set on attacking the French occupied islands to the north.
However despite the French ceding St Lucia to the English in 1814 we were a
little slow it seems in replacing the existing French customs etc. and so most
towns here have French names and the local Patois is French based! Pigeon Island (which is actually joined to the main island
by a newish causeway) still has the remains of the fort, barracks and
some of the defences and is now a park maintained by the St Lucia National
Trust. Situated here overlooking their own old wooden jetty is a restaurant/bar
called Jambe de Bois which is a wonderful idiosyncratic wooden shack with
rickety tables and chairs outside made from bits of old wooden ships. The view
is across the bay and the breeze is refreshing as are the rum punch cocktails.
In fact we left Steve and Chris there on Saturday night as they celebrated
their wedding anniversary, with Steve last seen going downhill fast! On Sunday morning we woke to find another Najad moored very
close to us. This turned out to be ‘Flying Penguin’, a Najad 440
which is on its way north through the Caribbean. There we were thinking
how intrepid we were having completed sailing 15,000 miles in Serafina since
leaving Sweden ourselves in 2007 and just got here having left the Middle East
in July 2010 and then they turn up on their way north having sailed from Sweden
(in 2008) all the way down to the Falkland Islands and then back up to here!
They were only planning to stay for the morning here in Rodney Bay and then
sail on up to Martinique, but when we suggested that they could come for drinks
in the evening if they changed their minds....they changed their minds! Chris and Steve joined us as well and we sat fairly
spellbound as Brittis
and Hjalle told us some of their harrowing tales of adventure including being
knocked down (boat laid over 90 degrees on its side) three times during a storm
that blew at 60 knots for two full days and nights; and being run down
and dismasted near Istanbul in their previous yacht by a Bulgarian cargo ship!
They also had wonderful stories about their trip down to the Falklands and all
the research they had done for rounding the Horn (he also had business
connections in Chile) but in the end one of their daughters announced that she
was getting married and all their plans went by the board. They brought with
them their ship’s teddy bear ‘Charlie’ who clearly goes
everywhere with them and even has his own section on their website www.flying-penguin.se and so we
introduced him to ‘Hans’ our ship’s teddy! Anyway the evening
flashed by far too quickly and they are heading off now, north to follow the
east coast of America up to New York and perhaps beyond. On Monday Steve, Chris, Sarah and I decided to trek to the
top of Pigeon Island which involved making two pretty steep climbs. The first
took us up to the old gun emplacements from the 1780’s overlooking Rodney
Bay where the English fleet had been based and then the second took us to the
top of Signal Hill which was the look-out point from which you can clearly see Martinique,
just 25 miles away. It was needless to say hot work, but we did at least make
an early start and then celebrated with lunch in the Jambe du Bois restaurant
back overlooking the anchorage. We have posted a few photos of the expedition as
usual at http://www.rhbell.com/photos_2011.html
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