The Frog Chorus
36:37.3N 029:05.5E Sunday 9th May Woke to the sound of spots of rain that briefly turned into
a proper shower, but the real downside of this was that the rain was heavy with
sand and the boat looked for all the world as if we had been sprayed with
coffee dregs! After a leisurely breakfast we used the dinghy to go ashore
and made our way through the undergrowth and scrabbled over rocks, kicking up
the smells of hillside herbs as we followed the intrepid Trevor on an
expedition up the side of the towering hill to view the rock tombs that give
the bay its name. Sarah insisted that we pause to view a couple of rock pools
teeming with frogs. Fortunately it was cloudy still and so not too hot for the
climb up and we were rewarded with some great views although the weather meant
that it was not as clear as we might have hoped. Made our way back down to
Serafina and decided to get under way as the bay was fast filling up with very
noisy Gullets and their loud music and equally loud passengers. On our way out we picked a spot where we decided to
‘swing’ our gyro compass as we have been getting some odd readings
lately. This required us to motor very slowly in two complete circles, each one
taking a minimum of two minutes. No sooner had we started this exercise than
boats seemed to materialise from everywhere and there was a lot of confusion as
we slowly pirouetted in front of them all. Once this had been completed we
visited a few other impressive bays before making our way under engine to
Fethiye. The water in Fethiye Bay is a horrible turgid green (s**t
coloured by moonlight or Solent brown) which is not very inviting in any
capacity. We anchored just off the shore a little way past the main town and
its marina in around 12 metres of water and plenty of swinging room around us.
At this point in the afternoon there was no wind at all and it was hot and very
oppressive along with the sound of thunder rolling around the distant snow
capped mountains. As we had tea the wind got up and we enjoyed a very welcome
breeze which made it all very much more comfortable however this rising wind
revealed that the support strut for our wind turbine had shed a retaining bolt
and was wobbling a bit. We secured it with a temporary fix with a smaller bolt
and have noted to buy the correct size bolt tomorrow. The peace and quiet of
the evening was shattered by the late and very noisy arrival of a French boat
which had several abortive attempts at anchoring, each time too close to other
yachts for safety and then when they finally got settled, the crew sat out on
deck and partied very loudly! Fethiye is quite a large town and natural harbour, although
it is fairly featureless as like Marmaris it was totally destroyed by an
earthquake in 1958 and almost all the buildings are concrete structures. One
redeeming feature is the restrictions on high rise buildings which mean that it
has not grown upwards like so many other places. Parts of the ancient site of
Telmessos remain and there are stone sarcophagi around the town dating from 350
BC and the ruins of a Crusader tower still to be seen. Behind and above
the town is the tomb of Amyntas which is an Ionic temple facade carved into the
sheer rock face dating from 450 BC. |