Night passage to Cartagena
37:35.7N
00:59.0W Thursday
17th June Yet
another apology to make. The fireworks that greeted the return of the Virgen
into the port of Almerimar, were just a gentle curtain raiser. The main event kicked
off at 00.30am (thank you God!) with a much grander affair. Lots of quite
impressive rockets etc. but there was always something about it all that
reminded me of school events, in that no-one actually knew what any of the
fireworks would do. This resulted in some of the best ones, surely destined for
the grand finale, being let off very early and the event ended on quite a tame
note and just petered out. Sarah, for the very first time in her life failed to
even get up to watch them, but then what they lacked in sparkle they made up
for in sheer noise. 9.30am
saw the arrival of Mike Hughes, who is the local expert on ham radio and SSB
long range radio. Sarah is our expert in this field, having spent a week
on a very difficult and boring course to get qualified, but on the trip down
with the rally, she had found that although she could hear all transmissions
perfectly, the others could not really hear her. Mike is an expat whose wife
runs a yacht brokerage in Almerimar as well as a large book swap shop, whilst
he is happy to help solve electrical and electronic faults etc. when not
tending his olive grove. Lots of boxes of test equipment were opened and
connected up and a whole myriad of tests run. One interesting side effect of
the RF leakage (oh yes, he explained all these wonderful terms!) was that on
full power, when you spoke, the bow thruster came on! This will have to be
looked into in due course (Mike Jennings are you reading this?). The
extraordinary result of all these tests was that the microphone which was
supplied with the boat and radio is the type that features something known as
noise cancelling (to cut out background noise on a boat) but because Sarah is
softly spoken over the radio, it is her voice that it tends to cancel! Now
there are some amongst you all (Tom, Ewan and me for a start) who will find it
hard to credit Sarah with being softly spoken, at least not when she really
wants to be heard!! However, I watched the dials for myself and she struggled
to make them move. Anyway the outcome is the need to buy a proper phone handset
for SSB and we await some suggestions from the manufacturer. We
left Almerimar at 3.00pm and set off for an overnight sail to Cartagena, which
was a trip of some 111 miles, meaning that we should be arriving around 9.00am
in the morning. The wind was barely able to ripple the ensign, so we had to set
off under motor. This was the chance to try the new fishing lures, so the rod
was rigged and the complicated assortment of feathers (fancy lures with
hooks)and a spinner was set to weave its magic behind us. Needless to say very
little happened and it was at least an hour later that Sarah glanced behind us
to see the head of a very large fish rear up out of the water as it took the
spinner! Cue for general excitement and panic in which we did none of the right
things for sure and right enough, the fish was soon gone, but so too was the
spinner and the line, leaving just the feathers dancing in our wake. Mmm. the
book says we should have put a trace line on which is tougher than the
50lbs breaking strain line that we use, to stop them biting clean through. But
we only went for the smaller lures to try to catch smaller fish, so it is
clearly a very complicated game when there are so many very genuine game and
sports fish lurking around us. Once we reached the Cabo de Gata , the seas
increased in size and there was a modest increase in wind strength, but sadly
only to 10 knots and this was bang on the nose, so we opted to continue motor
sailing to minimise the increasingly violent pitching of the boat. Friday
18th July It
was a full moon and a clear sky all night so it never truly got dark, which
meant that on our different watches we both saw dolphins that joined us along the
way. The seas eventually began to settle a bit, but the wave size and frequency
made Serafina buck like a rodeo horse at times. Around 2.00am a Fred Olsen
Lines cruise ship passed us, destination Carthagena, which was giving us clues
as to the size of the harbour. Full daylight broke in time to help us weave
through fleets of fast moving working trawlers, next the Greenpeace boat
‘Arctic Sunrise’ (Photo on the website www.rhbell.com
) came past and then Sarah pointed out a swordfish jumping. Finally as we made
our approach into the chicane entrance to the main harbour, between two hills
bristling with mainly 19th century defences, we met a submarine coming out to
add to the complications. (Photo on the website www.rhbell.com
) The
harbour is very extensive and we now know that it is the principle home of the
Spanish Navy’s Mediterranean fleet, as well as taking in the odd cruise ship,
and indeed, just by the marina we were heading for was the Fred Olsen ship ‘The
Braemar’ that had passed us earlier. We
failed to raise the marina either by phone or radio, so we edged our way in and
found space on what would once have been the main town quay. In due course we
were able to contact the office and they dispatched a ‘Marinero’ to give us the
details. This is the Spanish way, and the Marinero are generally very helpful
middle aged or older men, who direct you to your berth and help you with your
lines and in particular the lazy lines. We fell into conversation with a group
of watching English folk who were off the cruise ship. They were easy to
identify even without the obligatory Fred Olsen Carrier bags! Hordes of them
were strolling gently (it was already very hot and just 10.00am) armed with
maps looking for something to do. It seems that finding and talking to the
nearest English yacht is high on their agendas and so the numbers rose.
However, the first couple burst the bubble with the question,”If you come from
Worcester, do you know John Bennett of Bennett’s Dairies?” Now it was at this
point that our (sorry, my) luck changed as we were approached by a blonde Lara
Croft (bikini top, long bronzed legs and the hottest hot pants with radio,
notepad and phone on a belt, who turned out to be the marinera. (my brother was
right, you do need to listen to the words more carefully, an ‘a’ on the end
makes all the difference!) Eventually she was able to direct us away from the
very public quay, over to the pontoons in the main section of the marina and
for good measure, she then jogged round to take our lines. (Photo on the
website www.rhbell.com, you wish....) The
marina is run by the very posh local yacht club, but sadly does not have wi-fi
(so no pictures in today’s log) or very good security, but the berths are well
maintained although there is a pretty constant swell set up by the various ship
movements in the main harbour. Very
historic city, with a very strong Roman and Carthaginian heritage, which has
shrugged off its more recent run down past including being a R & R drop off
point for the American 6th Navy fleet, to reinvent itself as a tourist
location, and a regular call in spot for the cruise ships. We are staying here
tomorrow, so should be able to give more detail in the next posting. |