Africa and Whales

36:08.95N
05:21.22W But
first... Saturday
5th July Well
a quiet night would have been nice but a disco nearby kept up a remorseless and
VERY load output of Spanish rock music until 3.00am. Heaven knows how loud it
must have been inside! Ann
arrived on foot around 9.30 and was most impressed with our labours. She broke
the bad news that she has 'lent' her car to her god-daughter in Madrid and that
we needed to get the bus out to her beach house in Zahara. This actually involved
a 25 minute walk to the bus station, a 15 minute wait and a very pleasant 10
minute ride in an air conditioned coach to her 'village'. What she has failed
to notice over the past 10 years is that they have developed her village into
quite a serious Spanish beach resort. We walked along the beach to her house
which turned out to be a very nice maisonette with a great roof terrace, from
which, with difficulty, you could see the sea. We had a great day with her and
finally we caught the last coach back to Barbate at 8.30pm and walked back to
the marina. Sarah
& Ann waiting for the bus. Barbate
as a town has become a victim of the demise of the Spanish fishing fleets. By
all accounts it was once a thriving fishing port, but with the decline in fish
stocks it has become fairly seedy and has something of a reputation for drug trafficking. Sunday
6th July. A
quiet night, at least until 3.00am which is when the disco started this time. Last
song finished playing at 7 am. Up
at 8.00am and set off for Gibraltar around 10.00am, passing Zahara and yet more
tuna nets an hour later. Tuna
nets off Barbate The
wind quickly built up to a fresh 15 - 20 knots and we made great progress down
the coast to Tarifa. Ahead of us all the way and clearly visible, was the coast
of North Africa and Tangiers. As we rounded the southernmost point of Spain, we
were a mere 6 miles from Africa and into the Straights of Gibraltar. This was a
very important milestone for us in terms of our trip so far and as the wind
rose to 30 knots and Serafina flew along, reefed now, at 8 knots plus, the day
was made as two huge fin whales very close together, came powering past us
heading in the opposite direction towards the Atlantic, blowing massive spouts
of water into the air as their backs arched in a series of rolling dives. Africa! Gibraltar
itself loomed large as did the frightening amount of very large ships heading
in all directions, added to which, there were all the ferries heading back and
forth to Morocco. We
sailed into Gibraltar harbour and on to Marina Bay where we had booked a berth
for two nights. The wind remained very strong and the berth we were given
required us to reverse, downwind onto a concrete quay and pick up a lazy line. This
we managed without incident and after a quick stroll round the bit of town
nearby, we retired to the boat for a celebratory G & T and copy of today's
Sunday Telegraph. Yet another really great days sailing. Gibraltar The
marina seems a bit run down, but this may be because it has been sold to the
huge development that is being built around it. Sadly we get the impression
that the current financial situation has stopped all of this dead in its
tracks, but doubtless we will learn more tomorrow. The one thing we are sure of
is that the marina lies directly alongside the airport runway, but so far (it
is Sunday) only a couple of planes have landed or taken off. (The EasyJet flight
needed every last inch of the runway for its landing and I was sure it was
going to drop off the end of the runway into the marina approach. Surely cannot
be as bad as last night though? A lot of the boats here look a bit sad, with a
very neglected air and quite a few 'For Sale' signs dotted about. However,
Sarah tells me there is an M & S here as well as a Morrisons, so it may not
be all bad! The
generator saga continued with a phone call from Mastervolt in Holland to say
that the Spanish agent was all set to send a dealer to see us in Rota. He had
rather missed the point that we had already left Rota at this point! Plan B
seems to be for us to discuss a suitable venue with the Spanish agent in
Madrid. They did get me to do some more checks and run it up in the marina and
sure enough it stopped again after just 3 minutes with the same oil pressure
failure message. Might be time to start taking bets as to when this might
actually get fixed (or replaced). Retail
therapy day in Gibraltar tomorrow! |