Paxos

39:12.158N
20:11.213E Sunday
24th August The
Preveza night life calmed down around 4.00am and so we slept soundly right
through to 7.00am, which is when the bin men arrived with their lorry! Had planned
to get away early anyway, so we upped anchor and set sail for Paxos. Southerly
wind was certainly the right direction, but again it failed to raise itself
above 4 knots all morning. Made good progress with a knot of tide under us all
the way and found ourselves passing the entrance to Mongonissi on the Southern
end of Paxos around midday. Could not resist a quick look round the bay, just
to map out where we might moor when we returned later in the week. Pressed
on to the Northern entrance to Gaios harbour and took a good look round trying
to pick a good (quiet) mooring point. Usual practice here with dropping the bow
anchor and reversing to the quay, but these islands are notorious for having
rocks and rubble just under the water close to the edge, which can do some
serious damage to your rudder if you are not careful. Getting the hang of going
in bow first with the forward looking sonar on. This gives us an underwater
profile of the sea bed, so we can check for any obstructions. We then back out,
turn round, drop the anchor and slowly reverse back in. Strolled
into town and our first stop was Gaios Travel, which is still run by our friend
Yanis, who seems as youthful and ageless as ever. In fact at 50 he has just got
married and has a baby son. Lots of questions for him, but they could wait for
another day, as we were hoping to get some lunch at Theo and Pan's restaurant. Theo
was running the restaurant when we arrived and he was in great form, possibly
as cheerful and chatty as we have known him! He filled us in with some of the
news, which sadly included the fact that we had just missed seeing his Dad
again as he had died just two months ago, aged perhaps 99 – no one knew
his age . Also his brother Pan was recovering from lung cancer treatment, but
the good news was that he was back from Athens and was around, so we would get
to see him later. Met up with some of the family and they kindly treated us to
lunch, whilst Theo as ever, rushed around running the busy restaurant. Then
treated ourselves to an iced coffee with ice cream in the town square and sat
and watched the world go by. Returned
to Serafina in the afternoon, to tackle a few of the 'jobs to do' list and
discovered that our mooring was perhaps not the quiet spot we had hoped
for....not sure quite when flying boats started running between Corfu and
Paxos, but they park themselves on the quay right next to us! (See the photos
at www.rhbell.com ) Unaware of the rules of
the road with regard to an seaplane, but I never expected to see one in the
narrow entrance here. Even more extraordinary was that they take off from
inside the entrance as well, with just a small speed boat, trying to make sure
yachts and motor boats do not come whizzing through the gaps in the islands
just as they are taking off! In
the evening we went for a stroll into town, but firstly went to see if Pan was
at his restaurant. Predictably he was there, but actually preparing his fishing
lines for the next day. In the end we spent the next 4 hours sat chatting about
just about everyone and everything. He talked about aspects of his family
history about which were totally unaware and obviously he talked about his
illness. He has only been back from hospital in Athens for about a month and so
he does not work in the restaurant, but he is happy to spend hours fishing and
likes to keep a eye on the restaurant at all times even though it is actually
being run by his hardworking wife Katy and one of daughters, Maria. Somehow we
seem to have agreed that I am going to go out fishing with him using his nets
and the long lines (1000 metres) with up to 150 hooks on! Sarah seems to think
that I might find this fun. Pan
also explained where best for us to moor Serafina when we go to Mongonissi.
Mongonissi is actually an island at the that the family own and they have run a
restaurant and bar there since 1978. It was all very basic when we worked out
here, but it was (and still is) one of the flotilla's favourite stops. Nowadays
Theo runs it with help from his children (eldest 20), but because of Pan's
illness, poor Theo also manages the restaurant in town at lunchtimes! Strolled
back to Serafina around midnight, the wrong side of countless glasses of Pan's
house wine having not actually eaten yet. (We said we would not eat at their
restaurant unless they let us pay.....may need to revise this plan.) Monday
25th Aug So
now we know that the Seaplane service starts at 7.30am. Bit
of a nothing day today, with various strolls round the town, trying to work out
what might open when! Took the dinghy off for a trip out to one of the islands
for a swim which was great as it has been very hot indeed today. Italians have
put on quite a show this evening with some dreadful attempts at parking their
boats. Must all be getting jaded at the end of the summer, but the quay in the
centre of Gaios was a remarkable jumble of boats with their anchors going off
in all directions and some very heated and animated discussions about who was going
to do what. Have
discovered the Wi-Fi at last, but of course having lugged the laptop around all
day, I chose not to take into town this evening!. Hope to upload pictures and
various bits and pieces in the morning before we set off North to Lakka. |