Rock Ferry

14:33.31N 61:03.42W Thursday 17th and Fri 18th Feb Headed off from the anchorage at Le Marin around 8.45am and
carefully picked our way out of the shallow bay with various unmarked reefs. Moderate 15 knots of wind behind us as we sailed clear of the
inlet and past the massed lobster pots gathered around the entrance and off
towards Diamond Rock. Diamond Rock has a place in history as the English,
during their long running fight with the French in Napoleonic times, short of
ships chose to mount guns and a small garrison on the top of this precipitous
rock and called it HMS Diamond. A good many French ships got quite a surprise
as they sailed past! The wind remained steady now at 15 knots and we had a great
sail round the south west tip of Martinique and headed up the west coast as far
as the big bay with the capital, Fort de France on its northern shoreline. We
made for Anse Mitan which is a small bay on the southern side with a little
village and protected anchorage. However along the way we did encounter a
German catamaran which managed to get Sarah very agitated! He was sailing along
in the opposite direction to us, sunbathing on the trampoline in the bows and
paying no attention at all to what was around him. We were on a starboard tack
which in sailing terms gave us absolute right of way, but he made no attempt to
avoid us and indeed did not even see us until very late. He then rushed around
and altered course all a bit too late and as we passed close behind him, he
gestured dramatically to say that he was towing a long fishing line! We made it
rather clear (I believe) that he was wholly in the wrong here and we made no
attempt to alter our course any more as we were genuinely beating to windward
and did not want to surrender any more precious ground. He seemed bemused that
we were not being any more helpful here and I suspect that like others we have
met along the way, he has no real idea of the rules of the road and how they
might apply to him! We felt our way slowly into this small anchorage which is
wedged tightly between a beach, a reef and a marked fairway for small ferries
leading to a jetty. Our anchor did not want to bite and we dragged a bit before
it reset itself, took hold and buried itself into the sand and coral bottom.
Sarah had chosen to come here because of the regular ferry service across the
big bay to Fort de France where she planned some shopping for Friday, however
the downside of this location is that these same ferries fly in and out with
quite big wakes which rock us about quite a bit once an hour. Fortunately they
only run until 11.00pm! We spent the rest of the day doing a few odd jobs
including a lengthy spell in the water by Sarah as we cleaned the waterline on
both sides of the hull. Sarah’s side was in poor condition and mine was a
breeze! In the evening we went ashore for a stroll and walked up to the resort,
marina and village just round the headland from where we are moored. Wall to
wall boutiques seemed to be the order of the day and I felt lucky to get back
to the boat with my wallet intact. On Friday morning Sarah was up bright and early to catch the
ferry, but was still getting ready when I saw it approaching. However we jumped
into the dinghy and sped in to the jetty arriving just ahead of the ferry which
Sarah was then able to catch. Unfortunately the majority of shops mentioned in
the pilot and Lonely Planet guide have either closed or are verging on doing
so, so Sarah was unable to complete the purchases she needed (including
replacing the sheet she lost off the line in Barbados, needed for our
forthcoming guests!) – but did manage a little retail therapy of her
own. She also visited the cathedral and the Bibliothèque Schoelcher which she
declared as wonderful, designed by a French architect Henri Pick for the 1889
World Exposition in Paris; it was then reassembled in Fort de France and is
still used as the local library, if a very ornate and colourful one! We ended the day rigging the new rain covers over the bow
and stern hatches – but of course it didn’t rain for once. |