Raindrops keep falling on my head

37:35.78N 00:59.10W Sat 14th August to Tuesday 17th
August, passage from Sardinia to Cartagena, Spain. We woke up on Saturday to the very unfamiliar sound of
raindrops falling on the deck. Actually it was hosing down for a short while and
the wind was blowing in from the seaward side so the bay was a very lumpy,
bumpy, cold, wet and rather inhospitable place to be. There were only a handful
of boats there with us and the first to leave was a very pretty 35 ft English
yacht which had a pretty torrid time trying to recover their anchor whilst
their bows kept plunging into each oncoming wave. Our plan was to leave around 2.00 pm but as usual I had
pottered about and got everything ready too early and was keen to be off, so we
left around midday assuming that this wind was very favourable for our trip. Of
course things never quite work out like that when you are sailing and no sooner
were we off the southern point of the island than we found ourselves headed by
the fickle wind and were now close hauled and tacking well south of our chosen
route. Several tacks and two hours later the wind began to veer nicely and by
2.30 pm we were on a fast reach with the cutter rig set, making 7 knots in just
9 knots of true wind and all was well. (It also gave Sarah her opportunity to
point out more than once that if we had waited........etc.) This was also the precise moment that we clocked our 10,000th
mile since leaving Sweden in June 2007 which was probably more deserving of a
drink of fizzy rather than the cup of coffee that we actually had to celebrate. At dusk the wind began to drop away and the direction backed
making it harder and harder to hold the course we wanted. There was only 1 hour
of a quarter moon and then it was very dark indeed, until around 11.00 pm when
the night sky over Africa to the south of us was lit almost continuously by a
huge and unremitting electrical storm. No sound of thunder where we were, but
constant lightning flashes spread along almost half the horizon. Neither of us much
enjoy these events and we were grateful to be speeding our way parallel and
away from the presumed track of the storm. By 3.00 am Sunday morning the
lightening was reducing, to be replaced by a thrilling display of shooting
stars and stunning phosphorescence lighting up our wake as we continued to
surge through the calm seas. Around 8.00 am I started fishing and during the course of
the day tried various different options and was beginning to get a little
nervous that we might be going to fail today when around 3.00 pm the reel
started to scream and sure enough we soon had another 3 kilo tuna in the
fridge. We rigged the twins ready for the forecast downwind run, but it never
happened and we were left on a broad reach with a growing uncomfortable swell and
little real wind to drive us on so we motored for a while and were grateful
when in the early evening the wind began to fill in and we could kill the
engine for a peaceful sail again. During the night though the seas began to build from a blow
elsewhere and began to make our ride very uncomfortable, added to which the
boom would swing to windward as the boat rolled in the waves and then crash
back out as the wind filled the sail again. By the early hours we had to put a
stop to all this and were back motor sailing with the mainsail pulled in tight.
This became very tedious and by morning the seas were really quite big and very
steep, so as they swept up behind us and loomed over our stern rail you really
sometimes wondered if they might not just sweep straight over the top of
Serafina, but of course each and every time they passed under us and allowed us
to semi surf down their fronts. Eventually the wind veered enough for us to set the twins in
the full downwind mode and Serafina fairly flew along in a perfect rehearsal
for the Atlantic, we hope! The wind rose above 20 knots but with a few rolls of
the furlex everything remained fully under control. Sadly by the evening normal
service was resumed and to keep our course we had to drop the downwind rig and
set for a broad reach, but again we had the nightmare of the mainsail not
having enough wind to hold it against the roll of the boat in the waves, so
again it had to be sheeted in to protect the sail, the fittings and our nerves!
We had only 12 knots of wind through the night but the seas did not seem to
ease much and so we had another uncomfortable night and awoke to a very cloudy
morning sky and a forecast that seemed to hint at the possibility of more rain,
but little wind. At 11.00 am we re-crossed the meridian (the north south line
of zero Longitude that passes through Greenwich) Tried a bit more fishing and got very excited by a big
strike in the early afternoon, but by the time we had slowed the boat etc.
whatever it was had escaped without being hooked which was a shame and the only
consolation was a bullet tuna that we caught as we prepared to make our
approach to Cartagena. Made our way into the large naval base and commercial port
that is Cartagena and approached the Club Regatta Marina with the faint pitter
patter of rain again briefly. Very rarely since we left the UK have we been
back to any individual port as our journey has been remorselessly outward bound
and then this summer we have headed back through the Med on a different route
from the Middle East, so Cartagena is a first in that respect. We called in
here in 2008 for a few days and were very taken with the place and of course
this was where we encountered the marinera dressed and looking remarkably like
Laura Croft, not that influenced our decision to come here in any way..... It was 7.00 pm and the night duty marinero (actually they
call them the ‘sailor’ now)was on call but his lack of any English,
our lack of Spanish (I am now so befuddled by all the languages we have
encountered over the past three months that I can barely utter anything
intelligible) and his confusion in his own mind as to how he wanted to moor us
up, led to a difficult 30 minutes before we were tied up safely and ready for a
cold drink. The SSB radio net that we conducted just as we made our
approach to the harbour revealed that Apparition are on their way here from
Mahon and hope to be here in two days, but neither of us has been able to raise
Scott Free who could be here later today if they have stuck to their plans. |