Raining in Paradise
Sunday 16th & Monday 17th Jan Sunday was firstly about getting some jobs done around the
boat but the highlight of the day was our invitation to have an early evening BBQ
at Bob and Lynn’s house out on the west coast. Bob collected all four of us from the waterfront at 3.00pm
and drove us first to the beach close to their house with a short detour to
show us ‘Sandy Lane’ which is where a good many of the rich and
famous have their mansions. (The big stars though like Cliff, Cilla and the new
addition, Wayne Rooney all live elsewhere in rather more exclusive surroundings
far from prying eyes!) There are no private beaches on Barbados as such, but some
have easier access than others. This was a wonderful long sweep of soft sand
with big but gentle waves and several long established trees set back
giving much needed shade. We had a long lazy swim before we drove the short
distance up the hill to their house with its fantastic panoramic view due west
of the Caribbean Sea. Here we enjoyed a dip in their pool and sundowners before
changing and sitting down to a wonderful BBQ dinner. Finally Bob kindly ran us
back to Bridgetown and we made our way back out to the boats at anchor in the
bay. On Monday we had a car booked for another of our ambitious ‘tours
around the island with an inadequate map’. Bob had already warned us
about the signposting here and the lack of much relationship between any maps
and what actually happens on the ground! The car was ready early for us, but unfortunately a very big
squall of 30 + knots and torrential rain meant that we did not set off ashore
any earlier than originally planned! I was today’s designated driver and
it did not take long to master the controls of quite the smallest automatic car
in the world. However it was fairly new and everything worked and so off we set
on a trip carefully planned in principle by Sarah and Chris. Coffee and cakes were taken in Speightstown (Steve though,
had a cheese and ham baguette which inexplicably also contained very strong
chilli!) before we moved on to Port St Charles. We went here as part of a
cunning plan to do all our checking out of the country paperwork in this quiet
office rather than have to make our way on foot to the main customs and immigration
offices at the cruise terminal in Bridgetown tomorrow. There were a few frustrating
delays here all the same, but in the end it was all done properly although
there is the small issue of us now being required to have left the country by
11.30 am on Tuesday. (You get 24 hours to leave after doing the papers.) Next stop was St Nicholas Abbey whose name is rather
misleading as it is not even slightly religious! St Nicholas Abbey is one of
the island’s oldest surviving plantations (founded in 1658) complete
still with the Jacobean mansion house and outbuildings and of course – a distillery.
It is well laid out and thought through for visitors, but the highlight is
probably the 20 minute black and white home movie shot in the 1930’s showing
life on the plantation as captured by the owner on a visit out here. Lunch beckoned and we headed off to the east coast but first
we stood on Cherry Tree Hill, surrounded by mahogany trees and enjoyed the
breathtaking views down the dramatic east coast of Barbados with the massive
Atlantic rollers crashing across the coral reefs that guard that side of the
island. Our expert navigator (Sarah) found her way to the Atlantis
Hotel which was down some very narrow and steep tracks, perched above the waves
breaking along the rocky shore below. The setting was wonderful, but the
service was a bit slow and we spent rather longer than planned waiting for some
rather overpriced meals! In addition to all our delays, we were also now rather low
on fuel which was rather foolish of us. We had seen so many fuel stations along
the way up the west side of the island, we just assumed this would also be the
case down the east side! But this was not the case at all and so we took
detailed instructions at the hotel to find the nearest petrol station which
needless to say took us miles off into the hinterland, up and down countless
steep hills and the route seemed designed to run us out of what little fuel we
had left. The weather also now changed dramatically and so as we pottered along
and ground our way up the hills, the rain came hosing down and the winds blew
with a force that had us more than a tad concerned about our boats back down in
Carlisle Bay. We did however eventually emerge into a small town with a welcome
petrol station and we were on our way again, but by now all our plans for the
rest of the day were in disarray, so we ditched to idea of the visit to Hunt’s
gardens and sadly we also had to shelve to offer of tea with Martin’s
parents who live out in that part of the island. It took us quite some time and a few wrong turns (the
signposts here are entirely optional and sometimes there are none and sometimes
a forest of signs, most of which appear to be advertising.) before we finally
emerged in Warrens (a town) and found the ‘Save Centre’ supermarket
which was our chance to do some proper food shopping before departure the next
day. Weirdly they stock quite a lot of Waitrose own products and
this supermarket was considerably bigger and better stocked than anything else
we have comeacross.This was a very worthwhile stop and it was with some
difficulty that we crammed all our purchases and then ourselves back into the
tiny car and headed back into Bridgetown, meeting the rush hour and its near
stationary traffic heading out of town. Finally returned to Serafina by dinghy in the dark and all four
of us sat down for a quiet drink and reflected on one our least successful
island tours! Off to St Lucia tomorrow (Tuesday). |