Saturday 19^th June

Sadly Rob was struck with the Ashkelon Affliction, so he sensibly decided to stay on board and keep awash with water.   The rest of the crew set off in a hired car for the Dead Sea, bouncing along in the small vehicle down the almost deserted, but reasonable roads (it’s the Jewish Sabbath).   Interestingly the rather basic hire company road map was actually showing every road on our route – there are just hardly any roads.   We passed pretty desolate steppe desert populated with camels and the usual sheep flocks with attendant herders out in the blistering heat.   We were stopped by the police but a glance at Trevor’s English driving licence (ie not in Hebrew) was too confusing so we were waved on.   Eventually we crested the final mountain to see the Dead Sea below us and descended 411 metres below sea level – it is the lowest place on surface of the planet.   We approached from the south passing the southern basin which is one HUGE salt pan of only 6m depth and a quite amazing turquoise colour.   What look like waves breaking on the shore is just salt drying out.

We carried on to Ein Gedi Nature Reserve to walk up to David’s Waterfall.   It was already pretty late at 11am to be doing the walk due to the temperatures but the suggested hike was a fairly easy stroll passing several plunge pools of freshwater, finally reaching the waterfall falling about 100ft.   All around the waterfall it is incredibly lush with water oozing through the rock despite the fact that the way up is through boiling rock.   It was great to hear birdsong again and we spotted a fairly grotty looking Hyrax and some Ibex.   We decided to forego the plunge experience as all the pools were heavily occupied and after a paddle to try and cool off, we set off for a more salty swim.

We opted to swim from the public beach rather than the full spa alternative expecting it to be very crowded.   In fact there were only 30 or so people, when we tiptoed over the very hot pebbles into the sea.   It is an experience like no other:  the water has such a high saline content that it is difficult to see through, stones drop directly (rather than the usual wibble wobble), to taste a drop of seawater feels caustic on the tongue, any cuts are agonising and swimming is simply impossible.   One floats so high, your legs come right out of the water, righting yourself is a definite technique – in fact progress against the current was most easily made in an almost walking mode, upright, sculling on your back or doggy-paddle with just arms.   Take a look at the photos at www.rhbell.com    When we came out, we were so salty it was not possible to dry off.

We carried on to Ein Gedi Kibbutz for a late lunch dictated by Sabbath doctrine which forbids use of any machinery (the very Orthodox actually switch on their lights the Thursday evening before and keep them on until the Sabbath is over or employ other people to do these chores for them), so we ate a pre-prepared Cholet dish, which was a huge plate of stew and rice and one serving was sufficient for the three of us.   We did notice that the air-conditioning and many other mechanical operations continue so perhaps it is just a nod in the right direction of religious doctrine?

We then went for a wander through the Kibbutz’s Botanical Gardens where they grow over 900 species of trees and shrubs ranging from  tropical to desert climates.   This was a fairly surreal experience as the setting of the kibbutz is within a barren rocky canyon with a temperature of 42⁰.   Considering the kibbutz was only set up in 1960 and the exceptional problems with water throughout the country, the trees were very mature and the gardens were beautifully set out amongst the buildings of the kibbutz and its guesthouse/hotel.   But we had to admit defeat as we had now reached melting point and headed back to the marina.

Our journey each way took us to within 8 miles or so of the Gaza Strip (yup, we are aware just how stupid we may be) which was really hard to believe.   The marina we are in is just north of the security zone but we are reliably informed that the Palestinians won’t bomb here as it is too close to the power station that also powers their air-conditioning.  

At 9.00 pm there was a concert and fireworks display on the beach beside the marina which went on till midnight. By all accounts it was not a fantastic event, but the music was fine and the bar stayed open late!