Strangers in the Night
13:00.17N 61:14.63W Sat 26th and Sunday 27th March Due to the forecast for deteriorating weather, we brought
forward our departure from Martinique to Saturday late afternoon. The trip down
to Bequia is around 90 miles and rather than push ourselves by trying to rush
this in daylight, we opted to make an overnight passage leaving Martinique at 1700
hrs and hopefully arriving in Bequia around 1000 hrs the following morning. We
are heading straight past St Lucia as we have already spent quite enough time
there this year and we want to squeeze in some time in the Grenadines before we
fly home from Grenada in early May. As a result Saturday morning was spent sorting out customs
and immigration (we checked in and out all in one fell swoop) and in between
monstrous downpours of tropical rain we visited various shops and the internet
cafe. In the afternoon we prepared Serafina for the night passage and got some
rest in preparation. We left bang on 1700 hrs amidst more torrential downpours
and as we emerged from the protective lee of the island out into the Atlantic
for the 25 mile crossing down to St Lucia, we had virtually no wind and a
surprisingly flat sea. We again opted to have 4 hour watches which means that one
of us sails the boat single handed whilst the other sleeps, changing roles
every 4 hours. Sarah rather lost out this time as her watches included the open
water stretches between Martinique and St Lucia and between St Lucia and St
Vincent, whilst I had the easier runs down the west coasts of both of these
islands. Consequently Sarah saw virtually nothing at all in her watches,
whereas I had dolphins and fishing boats as well as yachts and cargo ships heading
in the opposite direction to us to contend with. In fact we had a very
close encounter with a large yacht that had been heading safely past us heading
in the opposite direction, when inexplicably I noticed very late that its light
configuration had changed and it was now heading directly for us. Fortunately as
we were motor sailing at the time, I was able to apply full power and drive Serafina
flat out so that the other boat passed just behind us. I am quite certain that
they remain unaware of the incident and that either they had not seen our
lights against the backdrop of the lights on St Lucia behind us, or more likely
the person on watch was paying no attention at all and they had altered course
without realising we were there. The weather was not great and we enduring repeated heavy
showers usually preceded by squalls of 20 plus knots of wind and in between the
wind dropped to 3 or 4 knots and we had to use the motor. Finally for the last
stretch from St Vincent south to Bequia itself around 0900 hrs, we had a
healthy 25 knots of wind and although the waves in this bit of open sea were quite
a bit bigger, we had a great final sail to end a long night. The small island of Bequia has a reputation for being a wonderful
place to visit, but the anchorage (Admiralty Bay) and the town of Port
Elizabeth at its head, is known to be a bit difficult in that the holding is
very patchy. After pottering around big bay looking at the various options, we
selected a spot close to Princess Margaret Beach and were lucky enough to get a
really good patch of sand first time. We then noticed that barely 30 metres
away was ‘Saltscar 3’ with John and Sue who had been moored near us
back in Puerto Calero, Lanzarrote in November. We had a quiet day watching boats leave and arrive and took
the opportunity to relax after the night’s exertions. |