Suwarrow 20/05/2016
Wishanger2
Brian Bonniwell and Claudine
Fri 20 May 2016 15:34
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13 15.0N 163 06.0W
Suwarrow is a small deserted 'Cook
Island Attol' in the middle of, - no where really, but a place we
wouldn't have missed for the world. Brian insisted that before arrival we
all read a book by Tom Neale called "An Island to Oneself", which we all
dutifully did.
Tom Neale was a New Zealander who had
lived there alone from 1954 for about 20 years with only a three trips
back to civilisation, some 200 miles way. Hiis shack is still there
and visited each year by a NZ couple who are only allowed there as caretakers
for the 6 months outside the cyclone season. We were quite early so they
hadnt yet arrived, What a difference reading the
book made. All the descriptions in the book were brought to
life as we relived this man's experience of living alone on this desert
island. Strangely, it was as if we had known him and really
nostalgic.
The water was so clear and warm but on looking
down from the boat, sharks were circling around. Luckily they were
reef sharks which are harmless but slightly off putting at first!!. The WARC had
advised us not to throw food overboard in case more menacing
varieties were attracted into the lagoon!!
We organised a 'pot luck' meal (every boat
taking a dish ashore, which we all share) and made good use of
one of Tom's tables!. Claudine also organised a BBQ. It was
slightly unreal as we saw sharks swimming along the shallow shore line
fighting over the bbq left overs which the menfolk
mischieveously threw into the water (outside the lagoon of course!).
Also, huge hermit crabs crept into our gathered
garbage, demolishing bags and contents!! All the rally
participants took part in a rubbish collection foray along the shoreline
and a variety of (mainly plastic) items were collected and taken back to our
boats for later disposal.
The snorkelling was super but not quite as
spectacular as the coral gardens in Tahaa. We managed to find part of
an old ship wreck which Brian and the boys free dived down to. It was, or
at least had been, an Amel yacht.
Brian would have stayed longer as the anchorage was
very special but we only had permission to stay there for 72hrs
The departure was eventful to say the least. During
the morning the boys had dived down to the anchors of three boats
which had become stuck in the coral heads and Brian
very kindly stitched up a friends bimini with our sewing machine.
This meant we were a little late leaving only to find our own anchor and chain
had also become stuck around coral heads. In trying to clear
this our windlass overheated due to the extra
work. Eventually two hours later and after more diving we
left for our next destination - Niue.
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