Sicily

Wishanger2
Brian Bonniwell and Claudine
Sun 6 Sep 2009 20:31
38:01.85 N, 12:53.00 E
 
Sunday 6 September 
 
Before setting off for Sicily, we 'walked the walls' of Dubrovnik - very impressive.  
Having waved Hal off we motored round the bay to the immigration quay - only room for 1 yacht at a time, to find a 'super stink boat' tied up and 2 other yachts circling, waiting to check in/out.  So we hovered for 2 hours, storm clouds gathering above (and on board).  Finally it was our turn.  Brian with clean shirt and straightened whiskers, set off  with 'yachts docs'  determined to get the job done in record time.  We had hardly filled the water tanks before he was back, marching straight past us to the other end of the town to visit the police, the other essential port of call, far too obvious to have them next door to each other! 
Brian having had a wonderful summer in Croatia with family and friends was quite sad to be leaving Croatia, inspite of the bureaucracy.
 
Heading south for Sicily, Brian spotted an abandoned fender and decided the crew could do some man over board practice.  After a couple of goes it was on board. The exercise served to remind us of the difficulty in recovering a MOB in more difficult conditions - so, keep harnessed on.  We then had 4 days of wonderful sailing.  The wind behind us, only motoring for a short while one day and for the last few hours as we approached Palermo.  We had several sightings of dolphins; flying fish - sadly one landed on our fore deck and wasn't discovered in time to put back into the sea.  Grey wagtails stopped for a rest on the guardrail a couple of times - one deciding that as we were eating lunch he would wander among our feet clearing up crumbs (photo).  A mediterranean shearwater was also spotted - indentification made easier using the onboard reference library donated by brother Max a few seasons ago.  Michelle (Hal's replacement) joined John in the galley and we continued to enjoy fine cuisine.  Working in hot steamy conditions can't have been easy.
 
As we rounded the 'heel' of Italy we cracked open a packet of barbie pink candles, arranged them artistically on a posh swiss roll, and sang Happy Birthday to Neil.  We all soon settled into the watch system, carrying out some of the maintenance jobs a bit too enthusiastically - 2 mats being lost at sea.  An investigation followed!  Michelle had wrapped mats in pairs - her fault, Brian had not checked and sent one overboard - his fault, and John repeated the performance seconds later - his fault.   
We approached the Straits of Messina at night.  Much to Caroline's and Michelle's relief, John stood watch for 6 hours, interpreting the radar echoes of the numerous ships in the area.
 
That morning we watched, at close range, amazing kite surfers avoiding us and the numerous ferries plying across Straits (photo).
 
The pilot book did not speak well of Palermo harbour, but it was a port of entry, which we needed for our first stop in Italy.  Having analysed floating debris Michelle decided she was certainly not going to swim off the boat.  Against a back drop of an amazing mountain range, we motored slowly past a smelly working shipyard.  Berthing pontoons looked full, but a local yachtsman kindly pointed us to a space, with the thumbs up.  This was followed by an angry marina 'official'  chasing us away!  With the rib now in the water, various forays to the marina were made to negotiate our stay and we finally moored stern too.  We were all rather hot, hungry and after 4 days on a 'dry' boat, very thirsty.  Michelle and John went in search of some Italian delicacies for lunch, and Brian (smart shirt and straightened whiskers again) set off with Neil as official translator (English was clearly not understood in negotiating our stay, Neil's Spanish/French seemed to help!).  Caroline just had a cold shower!  Hours later M and J returned with a beautifully wrapped pack of pastries for lunch, having walked the streets of hot and dirty 'downtown' Palermo.  We gave up waiting for B and N and started our lunch (it was about 4pm by this time).  They eventually returned, after walking miles and having visited just about every public office in the city.  They decided that we must have been the first yacht ever to check in to Palermo, such was the confusion amongst the numerous officials.  One was even able to speak (in Italian) to both of them at the same time, with one beady eye focused on each!  He thought no one would be interested and told us not to bother!  A final try at an office with anchors outside - the Guarda de Costelia, opened a can of worms and B and N wished they had taken the advice of 'him with dual vision'!  After almost an hour in the basement of the building with smart white uniformed stafff coming and going, one playing patience on her computer, interspersed with forays into Google and Ebay,  they remained unable to complete the paper work for our entry back into the EU( Italy), and ordered us to return the next day.  By then, the officials hoped to have found out whether we were required to pay a tourism tax!
 
That evening, John marched us off to seek a recommended restaurant, eventually giving up.  We wandered the back streets, vaguely heading back towards the water.  We found a funny little place on a street 'crossroads' with an effusive 'mama' running the show.  How could we say no? a simple meal, with plenty of choice, we sat watching the locals walk or motorbike past our table. We were all surprised not to be ill the next day!
 
Next morning we waved John off in a taxi for the airport, sad to see him go. Brian and Neil then returned to the Guardia Costeria to complete the formalities.  Michelle and Caroline did some shopping and kept the washing machine going.  Hours later B and N returned - having got everything done in duplicate!  They then had to take a docket to the main post office - another long walk - join a long queue, to part with the princely sum of 5 euros16 cents, and then return the receipt to to the Guardia. In total this entry procedure took about 6 hours - what a farce!!!!!!!
 
Brian likes the idea of crew changes as close to the airport as possible!  With Michelle leaving the next day, we headed out of Palermo.  Heading west, past a rocky coast line  (photo) we dropped anchor  at Torre Pozillo within sight of the  airport control tower . Michelle and Neil investigated how she would get to the airport the next morning.  She charmed two local workers on the quayside to drive her to the terminal the next morning. Come the morning and with no sign of the anticipated lift, Brian and Neil set off with Michelle to walk 35 minutes to the terminal, arriving very hot and sticky but in time for the Ryanair check in.
 
Later, after a refreshing swim, we sailed passed the airport and anchored in the harbour of the town of  Castellamare Del Golfo (photo) , where Peter and Gareth are expected tomorrow.
  

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