Safe arrival in Vanuatu
Safiya
Harvey & Sue Death
Sun 6 May 2018 23:23
Safe arrival in Vanuatu
Despite our diversion to aid Calliope we still made good time to Vanuatu
reaching the first island of Tanna on Sunday night. From about 20 miles away
we could see the volcano like a beacon glowing red in the dark.
Over 80 islands make up Vanuatu although only about a dozen of the larger
ones are populated. They lie in a chain between the Equator and the Tropic
of Capricorn. Tanna is one of the most southerly islands and is famous for
having the world's most accessible active volcano. We duly arranged a trip
to visit said volcano - Mount Yasur. After diving with tiger sharks, surely
standing on the rim of a volcano staring down into a crater of magnum while
it boils and spits would be a doddle! It was actually safer than it sounds
as we were shepherded to the up wind side so we could observe the eruptions
relatively safely although there are no barriers or safety rails. We arrived
late afternoon and as night fell the eruptions became more frequent
occurring every 10 to 15 minutes and at dusk looked all the more dramatic as
the volcano spewed red hot lava way up into the air, the lava rocks seemed
to be suspended momentarily and then gracefully fell back into the crater
like a huge firework display.
There was very little evidence of the tourist income that the volcano must
generate as the island is generally very poor and primitive. Similar to the
outlying islands of Fiji, its close neighbour, villagers live in very basic
huts constructed of bamboo side with a braided palm leaf roof, dirt floors
and little or no furniture. We were shown around the village by a lovely
lady, bare foot children wearing next to nothing ran around with dogs,
chickens and pigs all roaming freely. The next day we went back into the
village with some of our old clothes and some baby and children's clothes
that we bought at a jumble sale in NZ. They were all very gratefully
received and in return we were given some produce they had grown -
grapefruit, peppers, lemons and a pumpkin. I had to smile the next day when
I saw the same lady proudly walking around in a Boden dress.
We had four days in Tanna as we had to wait for the Customs and Immigration
officials to fly in from another island and officially clear us into the
country. With 12 boats in the Bay the the local village benefited greatly
from the donations of money and clothes, fishing gear and general equipment.
In return they laid on a meal for us one night of locally caught fish,
roasted pork and local vegetable and this inevitably turned into an Oyster
party!
A days sail away we arrived at our next destination, Erromango. With just
one day on the island we spent the morning with a local guy David who has
built a "yacht club", he proudly showed us his library of books that have
been donated by yachties and we all signed his visitor book. When we asked
if we could buy a beer he said sorry no beer but he's hoping to have some
next year! David showed us around the village and then his wife prepared
some refreshments for us. In the afternoon he took us by dinghy to some
caves along the coast which were used as burial chambers by his ancestors
and still contain an assortment of bones and skulls and one almost perfect
skeleton.
In 1825 Missionaries arrived at Vanuatu to try and bring Christianity to the
islanders - many of them got eaten! In 1969 yes 1969! the last ritualistic
cannibal killing occurred. Three years later cruise boats started to visit
the islands!
From Erromango we have another days sail to Port Vila on the island of
Efate, the capital of Vanuatu.
We're looking forward to civilisation and a meal out!
