Since we've been aboard................

Kokamo's Pacifc Meanderings
Tom and Rachel
Wed 28 Apr 2010 09:54

 

The beginning

We moved on board Kokamo on the 16th February, the night before my 30th Birthday so our first day’s sailing was a double celebration - or perhaps more that entering my 4th decade was nicely tempered by knowing that we were finally going to make the dream happen for real.  It was a big milestone in our year and great to feel we were really getting started.  We spent a week getting to know Kokamo up in the beautiful Bay of Islands, working out how she sailed and fixing a few minor things.  

Kokamo at anchor

The sail down to Auckland - end of February

Our first proper sailing trip was down the coast of NZ to Auckalnd. We had a few more major repairs and bits of work to do on the boat and Auckland seemed like the right place to be based for a while.  The trip was pretty good and much to our relief we found that Kokamo did munch up the miles nicely - NZ to Tonga should be no problem we thought......!

Captain Tom at the helm in the first bit of serious breeze
 
The Auckland skyline as we arrived

The Dreaded Boatyard - early March

Our stint in Auckland was pretty full on.  Kokamo was hauked out of the water for a week to do a serious load of painting, plumbing, engine repairs and rigging replacement - all happening while we were still living on board amongst the general boatyard grime and mess.  We just about managed to get everything done although we were only putting the engine back togther as the boat was being lowered into the water - nerve racking moment!

Covered in paint after sanding the hull
Kokamo looking smart as she goes back in the water
When we were finally back up and running we did manage to catch some of the Louis Vuiton Match racing out on the water which was fantstic to see close up.
Team Origin (GBR) in hot pursuit
 
Coromandel Peninsula - mid March
 
It was great to get away from the city and start to do a bit of exploring.  We visited the tiny fishing town of Coromandel which was very quaint and had rather an exciting time trying to get back to the boat.  Kokamo was anchored a long way from shore in a  shallow bay and the tide was going out so time was of the essence.  Our dinghy outboard decided to give up just at the critical moment.  Tom did some frantic rowing into the wind but we were't really making any headway.  Thankfully we were rescued by some nice fishermen who were very amused at out incompetence so gave us a tow.
 
It was all a bit more relaxed once we made it up to the Northern end of the peninsular.  There is no road access to this part pf the coast so we really felt like we had the place to ourselves. 
Ok, so there is another boat in the photo....
We spent a couple of days chilling out at the millionaires pad of Great Mercury Island - a private Island which can be hired out for vast sums of money - reputedly where U2 stay when there are playing in Auckland.  Anyway, we anchored just off the helipad and Italian villa for a couple of nights and felt like we could almost be rich and famous, when we weren't stitching sails or tinkering with the engine.
 
Tom and I did our first night passage from Great Mercury back to  Auckland (a trip of only about 15 hours, but we thought we ought to give ourselves a bit of a challenge!).  It didn't start well - we discovered a critical plumbing issue just as it was getting dark and we were beating into a steep sea.  It almost made us put back, but after a stint  of lying face down in the bows of the boat a green looking Tom managed to fix it. The whole thing was  made marginally better by seeing a school of Dolphins and amazing phosphorescence on my watch in the early hours of the morning.  Still quite a relief to make it back in one piece - perhaps Tonga wouldn't be so easy after all!
 
We left Kokamo in Auckland for a week just before Easter whilst we dashed to South Island to get a taste of Fiordland and some of New Zealand's most dramatic scenery - See the Queenstown entry.
 

Great Barrer Island - mid April

Back on the boat and it was time to head North back up to the Bay of Islands, out port of departure for the trip to Tonga.  We stopped for a few days at Great Barrier Island which was wonderful. Port Fitzroy has an almost totally enclosed natural harbout which is incredibly sheltered and a lovely place to stop for a while. Even though all the Native Kauri trees were pretty much wiped out by logging to make spars for European ships the Island is still covered with dense native bush.  There are the remains of old Kauri dams  - impressive feats of engineering used to flush the huge Kauri loggs out of the mountainous forest though gorges to the sea. 

 

   
 

We walked to the top of of the island's highest hill - Mount Hobson - to find an amazing view, and rewarded ourselves with an afternoon at 'Smokehouse Bay' where some enthusiastic boaties have built a wood fired bath house - the first bath I've had since we left the UK - felt like luxury!

Passage to Whangaroa - mid April

Another night sail took us up to Whangaroa harbour.  Somewhat more sucessful this time although we did have to contend with tag team seasickness for the first half of the night- not so pleasant!

Tom's cousins - Mop, Jonjie and Susie - came aboard when we arrived and Susie was the first person on the boat to sucessfully catch a fish (although too small to eat! - we need to improve our self sufficiency skills).