Coastal sailing in Portugal is not like the Chesapeake Bay.   For one thing, the actual water along the coast is officially  the Atlantic Ocean and subject to Ocean behavior such as rather big winds and swells. But also, there are rivers that have big tides and very strong currents. Up to 7 knots in some cases!  And the tides go up and down at least 9 ft.  Oop, I mean 3 meters.   We have learned to check tides and weather before going to a new place. So far we have had delightful trips.   After Portimao and the river Arde, along with Ferragudo and Pria de Roche, we went to Vilamoura.  It was an easy entrance in between 2 well placed jetties  to the reception dock, and then to our assigned slip.  We only spent a week in Vilamoura.   Only a week? you might ask?  We have gotten used to spending more time in spots, on purpose!  The people we are meeting are making this adventure what it is!!!  We had a hard time leaving our new friends in Ferragudo, but knew we needed to move on. Then we instantly liked our new neighbors in Vilamoura.  However, Vilamoura, as nice as it is, doesn’t have the history or character  as some of these old towns that we have fallen in love with. Still, it gave us a chance to wash the boat, do loads of laundry, do some chores that required electricity, and get my MD Drivers License renewal eye exam at a very convenient and friendly clinic.

Once we were fueled up and paid up, we left Vilamoura  on a nice sunny  but chilly morning with a forecast of Westerly winds, 10 – 15 building to 20 -25. Common here for winds to build in the afternoon, and then die off later.  Our destination was Ria Formosa and the Isla de Culatra.  The entrance has a reputation of white water rapid type currents but we hit it at slack tide and had no problem getting in. We were advised to perhaps go to Faro or Olhao as either would be more comfortable than anchoring off Culatra in 25 kts of wind.  Although we meet sailors who swear that Culatra is the best anchorage in the world.  And more than one advice was to go to Olhao instead of Faro, because the dinghy ride to shore is easier and the town has more character. But we were also advised to go up to Olhao on a half rising tide, and to anchor off Culatra and wait for the tide if  we need to.   So as we went by Culatra, we still had an hour or so to go before  half tide and we did anchor, and just as promised the wind picked up to 20 – 25.   The anchor held fine, but there was a good long fetch, so after an hour we went up the well marked channel to the small but safe anchorage right in front of the town’s market and waterfront gardens.     Very nice!   And we fallen in love, again, with a new town.

And of course, we have met the most wonderful people!!  We have a contact here, Orlando, who lived in Annapolis in the 1980’s, and hung out and sailed with the same people we know. However, I was in North Caroline at that time and didn’t get to know him then.  But the last week has made up for lost time. We’ve already had 4 meals with him, 2 at his home with his most wonderful family where we had adventures in “weird food”, which included octopus, cuttlefish and air cured pork leg. All the most delicious foods we have had since leaving Annapolis.

We have several new German friends and one English and one Scottish, all on boats, and couple of new friends in town. We’ll be hanging here waiting for a package and then we cruise up the River Guardiana, which separates Portugal from Spain. My goal there is to have coffee in the morning in one country, and a beer in the evening in another!!!

All in all, the sailing aspect has been fine, even though we hang in one place so long. We have picked our weather days well and have watched the tides and have asked the locals lots of questions.  But as beautiful as this has been, it makes me appreciate, all the more, how easy it is to go sailing in the Chesapeake Bay.  But the Bay doesn’t have cuttlefish!