Lat: 38:39.2. N : Long: 027:13.1 W. Friday, 4th July, 2014 in Angra do Heroismo Marina, Terceira.
Sulana's Voyage
Alan and Sue Brook
Sat 19 Jul 2014 13:14
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Lat: 38:39.2. N : Long: 027:13.1 W. Friday,
4th July, 2014 in Angra do Heroismo Marina,
Terceira.
Firstly -
a belated very Happy 4th July to all our American readers!
Albeit,
it has to be noted here that Jason was somewhat underwhelming in his
response to my morning question as to how he was going to celebrate the day!
Very non-committal, but no matter, as Angra provided the fireworks and enough of
their 'maroon' type rockets to satisfy. There were bangs and rockets going off
all night until well past midnight, apparently all in aid of celebrating the
feast of Divino Espiritu Santo (The Holy Spirit).
We had
motored and sailed to Terceira, having left Vila and Graciosa relatively early
this morning, but it was a short, easy trip, and we did not want to reach
there much ahead of "Resting Goose" whom we had once more arranged to meet up
with, as Terceira is fast becoming a second home to them
now!!
When we
arrived the local Marina Master was kind enough to show us into the best
hammerhead berth in the harbour, right inside, away from any
serious swell, courtesy of David's local knowledge and earlier prep
work.
Our stay
in Angra was just delightful, with lots to see and do, including an island tour
which Alan shared with the Chatterton crew, visiting all the volcanic lakes,
fumaroles and lava tunnels, which was interesting, with all the roads
bordered everywhere with Hortensias in full bloom (Hydrangeas to us)
lovely.
Later,
one mad afternoon and evening, the Sulana crew spent watching street
bull-fighting at Los Bairros de Sao Pedro! This local tradition of Terceira
is madness itself, with men and boys running in front of loose bulls that are
only somewhat restrained by a long rope tugging along 6 grown men on the end!
This is their equivalent to our own very British Guy Fawkes' night.
It recalls the almost successful defence of the island against the
attacking Spanish forces of centuries ago, when the local inhabitants released
all their bulls into the roads to charge the enemy!
This
particular event was held in a small village near Biscoitos (so named by the
earliest Portuguese sailors, as the ground cover of black & brown lumpy
pieces of volcanic 'coke' seen everywhere resembled nothing more than the ship's
biscuits they were used to eating!
Our crew
all escaped any serious mistakes and mishaps, by trying hard not to be on
the street when the bulls were out, but, having now seen a video of previous
bullfights (toreiros a corda), I am not so sure we were anything other than
lucky, as those bulls certainly don't play to any Marquis of Queensbury rules.
They can clearly be seen to jump quite high walls! It makes great
TV and many of the local bars and cafes play these videos all evening, now the
football World Cup is over, to amuse their clientele!
Every
town and village on Terceira does this street fighting and there is a timetable
for each day of the three months it goes on for, so come here any time between
July and October to see it.
A measure
of its potential for disaster can be taken from the huge piece of 10" x 4"
timber that was strapped vertically into place in the middle of the local
Worker's Union bar's front door, to stop the bull getting into the
proverbial china shop!! All the houses and gardens along the quarter mile main
road of the 'arena' had temporary protection fitted,
mainly from fences built of packing case plywood and pallets.
Several barricades did not withstand the onslaught of the enraged bulls,
which were let out one at a time over a period of about two hours, (4 in all)
and on ocasion really went for a particular section, tossing it all around like
matchwood.
You
teased the bull at your peril, but it seemed to be all part of the fun and many
a young lad tried out his Toreador skills, usually armed with only an
umbrella, which amazingly seemed to work quite well!
Every session
in every town is filmed, as a commercial venture, too, so maybe we will be
seen on one one day........ Next stop
Sao Miguel.......
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