From Rangiroa we went to Papeete where Jack took a week’s holiday to crew for Proteus, a beautiful Oyster 655, in the French Polynesia Pearl Regatta. On his return he told us he had been asked to rejoin the boat on which he had sailed across the Atlantic at the end of last year. The owner is planning to do the same trip as we are now doing, but slower, spending more time ashore – a great opportunity for him. Before rejoining that boat he will be helping Proteus out again, providing holiday cover while their crew takes a few weeks holiday so we won’t be saying a final “goodbye” to him for a little while yet.

In Papeete we visited the main market, selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and a colourful display of sarongs, coconut oils, local artwork and jewellery and more ethnic-style pearl and shell jewellery. One lunchtime we ate at a waterfront café which was perfect for people watching – a constant stream of flamboyantly-dressed men and women, with many having a tiny white tiare flower tucked behind one ear. The ear chosen tells whether the person is already spoken for, or not!

Some people, men as well as women, prefer to wear a complete crown of flowers and foliage; not just as the finishing piece to a traditional outfit but with jeans and a t-shirt, or whatever else takes their fancy. It seemed slightly strange to be served by supermarket cashiers wearing these beautiful, fragrant headpieces so nonchalantly, alongside their less-than-beautiful polyester uniforms.

Next we moved on to Moorea where we met up with some French acquaintances on board their yacht, Alioth. We first (and last) met them in Paris in 2009 at the home of our friends Gerard and Sabine, when they told us of their plans to sail to far-flung places and we were just beginning the build of Sulana.

Gerard had kept us all informed of each other’s whereabouts and we finally managed to have drinks on board their boat, and then ours, taking photos to prove to Gerard that we had made it!

We then had to make an unscheduled trip back to Papeete to get our cockpit fridge repaired, before setting off again to Raiatea where we enjoyed a tour of the island, watched a very talented lady jeweller carving out some beautiful works of art and had an all-too-brief meeting with James and Lesley Laker, our previous crew.

We first met them in St Lucia in December 2010, all having sailed across the Atlantic. They left their yacht, Coba Libre, an HR 38, in dry dock ashore in St Lucia, while sailing with us for nine months, but returned to her in December 2011 to sail down to Lesley’s home near Sydney, Australia. Their trip south was long and leisurely, but, by the time they reached Raiatea, they decided to take a break, leave Coba Libre there and fly back to Oz.

They had only arrived back in Raiatea the day before we met them and we were leaving the next day but it was lovely to see them both – still full of enthusiasm for a life at sea.

 Lat: 16:31.5 S: Long: 151:46.4 W - Bora Bora, French Polynesia

We met up again with most of the Oyster Rally fleet when we berthed at the Mai Kai Yacht Club in Bora Bora; and, being right alongside the dinghy jetty, seeing everyone coming and going, we decided to have an impromptu rum punch party, which gave us an opportunity to catch up with friends who had been simply voices on the radio for so many weeks. Living on a yacht and meeting other yachties is a bit like being a dog owner who talks about meeting Rover(’s family) on the beach, except that we ask if we should ask Pearl of Persia over for drinks instead of using the owners’ names.

One of the highlights of our time there was the Oyster party at the world-famous (apparently) Bloody Mary’s. Alan and I have had two previous holidays sailing around French Polynesia, including Bora Bora, but had never even heard of it, but a large varnished board proudly stated that past visitors had included hundreds if not thousands of celebrities including Cameron Diaz, Billy Bob Thornton, Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell.

Another highlight was going to church on Pentecost Sunday and finding that almost everyone was dressed in white, as was the building itself! Every post, beam, table, altar and microphone stand was draped in white lace. The singing was absolutely beautiful with three apparently-distinct choirs sited within the general congregation taking the lead at various times.

As always – as far as we’ve so seen to date – the women were dressed to impress, especially with their hats. They would have outshone the most flamboyant debutante at Ascot with their creations. One woman really stole the show with an elaborately woven creation complete with a separate hibiscus pin, featuring five beautiful back pearls. Eat your heart out Philip Treacey!

And among the younger generation giggling quietly before the service began were a couple of very attractive “lady boys.” We were told that traditionally, when a family had a number of sons but no daughter, one of the boys was granted the honour of becoming a girl.  These people, known as ‘mahu’, were once accorded great respect and dignity. They were well regarded by the rest of the population for excelling at women’s tasks such as singing in an excellent high-pitch falsetto and dancing; however they are now often described in the more derogatory term of “cross-dresser.” That said, most of those we’ve met, have been very dignified – and immaculately turned-out, the only giveaway signs being a larger frame, feet, and hands; hairier arms and of course, the Adam’s apple!