Monday 18/04/11

Position 32:22.6N  64:41.1W Captain Smokes Marina

1200UT Temperatures: Air 24, Sea 22

 

The 5 days 14 - 18 April were spent at Capt Smokes Marina in St George's Harbour on the eastern side of the islands.  It is conveniently located on the western edge of the town of St George and close to a small chandlery/hardware store, supermarket, laundrette, bus stop and ferry terminal, and an excellent hostelry The Tavern By The Sea (with internet access).  In the Marina we were hosted by the charming and helpful brothers Bernard and Billy, berthed stern to the wall with two stout lines forward.  We shared this pleasant facility with the crew of Skylla, Simon, David and John, who were also berthed on the wall (included are: toilet, basin, shower, electricity and water). 

 

Arrival and departure arrangements for yachts are worthy of comment.  Bermuda Harbour Radio was received on Channel 16 over 50 miles from the Island and their communications give a good indication of the friendly welcome that awaits arrival on Bermuda.  Similarly Customs and Immigration operate a 24 hour service from a base on Ordnance Island in St George's Harbour and could not be more helpful.  All in all a remarkable contrast to the reception experienced at some other ports of call - an outstanding model for others to follow. 

 

St George dates from the foundering of the ship Sea Venture on a nearby reef in 1609, one of a fleet of nine British ships loaded with supplies and colonists bound for Jamestown Virginia.  Its commander, Sir George Somers, was apparently impressed by the islands and settlers soon arrived and established the Town (he died in 1610 and his heart is buried in Somers Garden).  Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and well worth visiting; of note is the Anglican St Peter's Church established in 1612 which is a lovely building with a welcoming congregation and contains many interesting memorials to the Parish' former inhabitants.

 

Equally impressive is the former Royal Naval Dockyard located on the western tip of the islands and easily reached by the ferry from St George, which continues to the island capital Hamilton.  Indeed transport arrangements are good with a one day travel pass allowing carriage on all buses and ferries.  The Dockyard has been tastefully restored including provision of a cruise ship dock, and the Bermuda Museum is located there.  This is a must to visit, the exhibits in the former Commissioner's House being particularly interesting and cover topics wider than Bermuda.  The fortifications throughout the islands are also well preserved and presented, showing developments in military construction through the ages.

 

In company with the crew of Skylla, we passed a pleasant day in Hamilton which included a great lunch at the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club founded in 1844 and apparently the third oldest such Club in the world.  The ambience of the setting and hospitality experienced are second to none (and Bermuda shorts worn by its staff are a model for other yacht clubs!). 

 

Unfortunately our time on Bermuda was too short to fully take in what there is on offer.  However, we retain happy memories of our visit, and greatly appreciate the friendliness and cheerfulness of all whom we met - we hope to return!