Alex and Al decided that after 75 and 82 nights onboard Starcoss that they would take the oppotunity of being in the Saints, and the excuse of Alex's birthday to go into a hotel for two nights, leaving Ross staying onboard.

 

A & A first thing, on Wednesday morning, headed to the scooter hire place - unfortunately at the same time as a day tripper boat arrived.  Here we learnt that since Al didn't tick the motorcycle provisional box the last time he renewed his photo driving licence (you no longer get it automatically), and since Alex had not been driving for long enough, the only scooter that we were allowed to hire was a 50cc.  We quickly realised that every other frenchman in the queue was allowed at least 100cc or even greater.  The result was a very slow tour of the island, with Alex walking up the steeper of the hills.

 

Our first visit was to Fort Napoleon.  An extremely impressive fortress, built ontop of the hill, with a proper ditch, thick outer wall, and keep in the middle.  In engineering terms far more impressive than the forts the British were building at the same time that we visited in St Lucia (although I think Fort Brimestone in St Kitts may make up for this). The fort is now a museum, dedicated to the French defeat by Admirals Rodney and Drake in the naval Battle of the Saints in 1782.  A battle won by the British unconventional tactic, and for the first time sailing through the French line.  The castle grounds are now a mini botanical gardens and Iguana santuary.

 

A & A spent the rest of the day visiting the various beaches, and snorkling, before shopping for birthday presents and having a lobster dinner.

 

Ross' day was less eventful, spent deciding whether the anchor would drag any further, and catching up on emails before a walking tour of the island and a swim at an isolated beach.

 

The following morning, Ross climbed up to Fort Napoleon, and then collected A and A.  After a quick shopping trip, and lunch, we sailed across the channel, to Anse a la Barque.  A small very pretty, and extremely sheltered bay on the west coast of Guadaloupe.  A check of the latest grib files, and swell forecasts, and we decided that we should push on the Antigua before Sunday, to avoid forecast stronger winds and swells.

 

Today we sailed/motored up the west coast in the typically varying - in both strength and direction - wind that all the leward coasts seem to be associated with.  We stopped first at Pigeon Island, in the Cousteau National Park.  Where from the boat we had the best snokling we have had so far, with a huge variety of colourful fish, and corals to look at.  We also took the oppotunity to clean some of the slime and barnacles from the bottom of the hull.

 

We then sailed to the bay of Deshaies - on the NW tip of Guadaloupe.  A small fishing village, which seems very quiet and empty - we think due to the large funeral that was taking place in the church. However we managed to clear customs in the local internet cafe, and are now ready to head off in the morning.  We are surrounded by over 30 yachts at anchor in the bay, perhaps with the same idea of heading north before conditions deteriorate?

 

Ross, Alastair, Alex