Bequia
Bequia Our first few days in Bequia were bliss. A beautiful anchorage, a lovely island, pleasant people and all in all a great place to be (although some northerly swell made for a few rolly nights – Mate).
SG at anchor in Admiralty Bay. Calm and serene… Then… During the first week of November US insurance companies allow US boats to start cruising again. As Bequia is a main stopover, all of a sudden it seemed every American catamaran and all their friends were here – and – they were. Such was the level of complete stupidity that we had to tell four boats to move as they were far too close to us (the first boat at anchor has ‘rights’ and so can ask/tell others to leave if they are too close etc.). One large catamaran was so close that I feared a slight wind shift and they’d hit us. So there we are, paradise to a form of ‘hell’ in a short space of time. The mate and I tried: we visited the Bequia Heritage and Whaling museum (a very hot and sweaty walk), we walked along the island and met some very nice local people but the onslaught was too much for us, all our neighbours seem to want is to anchor as close as possible to their friends/the beach/the bar and seek out happy hour beers and burgers whilst travelling at speed in their planning RIBs. More than once I didn’t want to leave the boat for fear of someone anchoring way too close (or worse). Cheesed off – you bet we were.
A scared hedgehog?! However, Bequia is a nice island with an interesting history based around careening ships centuries ago, moving onto sugar cane and then onto whaling. Bequia is, in fact, one of only four places on earth that still holds a whaling licence – it is allowed to take up to four whales per annum (unlike some of the other countries afforded this dispensation, Bequia’s whaling is very much subsistence and low key – Mate). Whatever one thinks about whaling, perspective can be gained by looking at the history of it. One whale fed many people, all parts of the whale were used for a variety of things and prior to oil being discovered whale oil lubricated machinery and lit up the oil lights – everywhere. To this day it seems to be a very community affair with everyone involved in catching a whale benefiting from it.
Whaling boat c.1950
Before the anchorage filled up…
Whale sculptures
Taxi – Bequia style
The Friendship Rose – the last schooner to be built in Bequia
Pretty tree by the market Onward to very important matters: we were told that the beer lorry arrives from St Vincent on the ferry every Thursday morning and parks under the large tree near the market selling its goods at favourable prices. Off we went full of hope – but – no beer lorry! Damn, I said to the mate. But, luck was on our side this time and I spotted it outside a bar, a little bit of easy negotiation saw me walking away with a large box of beer – we’ll need that if anymore catamarans arrive! We are now checking the weather looking for a day to sail north to Rodney Bay, St Lucia which we hope will be mid-week. Until then we intend to enjoy our last few days in Bequia, including a very belated anniversary meal and collection of some bespoke tailoring for the mate! |
