Muros 42:46.6N 009:03.4W
We arrived in Muros on Thursday 18th and have spent three very pleasant days here so far. We aim to leave on Tuesday 23rd heading for Ria Pontevedra.
After spending a few days in Camariñas we took our eye off the ‘weather ball’ and, as the UK was experiencing another heat wave, the Spanish weather where we were went to pot. So not fancying gales and huge seas we decided to stay put in Ria Camariñas. However, we both knew a change of scene was necessary so we motored the short distance over to Muxia, spending the last three days of our time in Ria Camariñas there. What a change this was! Unmentioned in pilot guides, Muxia is the end of the Pilgrims’ trial from Santiago de Compostela. There were plenty of tourists, some had clearly walked the trail and the views from the church ‘Our Lady of the Boat’ and from the mount were spectacular. We could even see out to the Atlantic and check on the swell in preparation for our next leg.
Which brings me onto the passage from Ria Camariñas to Ria Muros.
Now, this passage takes in the famous cape of Finisterre, notorious for rough seas and lee shores. We picked our weather well and were able to sail dead downwind under full genoa all the way past Finisterre after a short bit of motor-sailing first. As we passed Finisterre, I looked at the mate – and she at me – it was obvious that we were both as relieved as the other. The reason – we had moved from an Orca interaction ‘red light zone’ into a ‘green light zone’. We had both been anxious about Orcas and the talk around the marinas here is about not much else. We had already chatted to another cruiser who had towed a boat in after losing the rudder and experiencing damage to the P bracket (a very strong fitting that holds the propeller shaft in place). The mate had been monitoring Orca interactions for some time and we’d both been pretty worried about the whole thing. No one seems sure why the ‘interactions’ occur, but the strange thing is that it only started after lockdown. The mate was very happy to file another ‘uneventful passage report’ on the Cruising Association website to add to the data collection.
Back to the passage! After Finisterre the wind went light, as it reputedly always does, and we ended up motor-sailing to the entrance of Muros, choosing to head through the Canal de los Meixios rather than head around the shallows and rocks. Once in the ria, the wind picked up from the north which was [of course] the exact direction we were heading. However, it wasn’t far to Muros port and we arrived in good time, but in a stiff afternoon breeze. When you arrive in a Spanish port, a marinero usually comes to greet you and to catch your lines. The only problem with this, is that you never have any idea where your berth is, or even which side to the pontoon you will be, so this often results in more confusion than is necessary with the resultant black looks from the mate (who doesn’t like confusion of any kind).
Now, after our Biscay crossing, the mate has been taking some Spanish form of anti-seasickness pill – I’m pleased to report that so far, so good. She seems fine. I haven’t mentioned this until now as when one does mention things like this, the mate usually finds ‘other issues’ about the matter – but not this time! All does seem to be well…
The mate will now spill the beans about Muros…
The first thing that hit us about Muros was the heat – we felt like we had finally arrived in Spain! Clear blue skies, full sunshine and a gentle breeze (most of the time). Our arrival coincided with the end of the heatwave in the UK, so Spain has its summer weather back.
Muros is a small town with lots of stone arches and red rooves. The buildings stretch a short way up the hill before pine trees take over. Our first day here was market day which was pretty chaotic, today is very peaceful and calm in comparison. The beach is right next to the marina and in full sun most of the time so we are waiting for it to cool down a bit before heading out to explore!
As we were wandering around town we saw some marquees and flags on the sea wall. As we were in Spain and it was a Saturday this could mean only one thing… an event! It appeared to be a national championship race of the Galician equivalent of gig racing, complete with very excitable Spanish commentary over a PA system. It was pretty serious stuff and we think the local team came second in their heat – well done Remo Muros!
Our next passage will take us about 35 NM to Ria Pontevedra. We’re calling in there on our way to Baiona or Vigo, where we’ll base ourselves for a few days before checking out of Spain and heading to Portugal. Also [no surprise] there are a few boat jobs to deal with; but it’s always best to stay on top of various jobs, lest they become too many. Our stay in Pontevedra may be fairly short so we’ll be in touch again from Vigo.
*previous blog - ice cream correction*
I feel I have been somewhat misrepresented in previous diary entries regarding ice cream and the consumption of such. I would like to point out that it is in fact the skipper and not the mate who is the on board ice cream fiend (although I have become rather partial to a cucurucho with a citrus sorbet)! Italian-style ice cream in a multitude of flavours seems to be a thing in Galicia, with most towns having at least one shop. Think I’d better take Skip out to find one in Muros…