Antigua and Guadeloupe (Home of TV's 'Death In Paradise'
April 2018: Antigua, Guadeloupe Crew: Ken Robertson, Jenny Thomas, Martin Woods Sunday 8 April, Jolly Harbour, Antigua Having arrived at Jolly Harbour the previous night in the dark, it was exciting to wake up to new surroundings, especially for Martin who’d not been to Antigua. Only the skipper is allowed ashore for the check-in procedure so Ken went off to do his duty. During our trip from Nevis to Antigua one of the forward port-holes had leaked sea water. I had an attempt at sealing it from the dinghy, while Martin held the dinghy in position. Unfortunately the waves were choppy and we were bouncing all over the place. I got sealant everywhere but the port-hole it seemed; all over the dinghy, Martin’s expensive sailing shorts, not to mention myself. Martin witnessed a few choice words from me so we decided to leave the other port-holes until a calm day! Hopefully enough sealant reached the gaps to do the trick!
We had earned lunch out and a wonderful walk along the beach culminating in an attempt at snorkelling. We couldn’t see our hands in front of our faces, let alone any sea-life! We turned the exercise into a good long swim so it wasn’t a wasted dip.
Propping up the bar – now there’s a surprise! Deep Bay, 6 miles along the coast was reputed to have excellent snorkelling, with a capital ‘E’. On arrival the bay was sheltered from the sea, but certainly not the wind. Unfortunately this affected the clarity of the water so snorkelling was not an option. There didn’t appear to be a dinghy dock, other than a few wooden posts remaining, so going ashore to climb up to the old fort was also not appealing.
We had arranged to meet some friends from Falmouth UK on 11 April, so decided to head down to English Harbour to find a good spot outside the beach apartment in which they were holidaying. We were aware this anchorage is notoriously busy, holding not great, wind and currents very fluky making boats swing all over the place in completely different, unexpected directions. We appeared to hit upon a great spot in the middle of the bay with just enough room to allow for us to swing without hitting other boats. The sail down the West coast of Antigua was excellent; we were flying, that is until we turned the corner at the bottom of the island. The wind was then ‘on the nose’, increased in strength, as we were no longer in the shadow of the land, and the waves were short and sharp! Motor on, it was a hard slow slog for the last few miles so we were pleased to actually find a space, what looked like possibly the last one, and drop the hook in the relatively sheltered bay.
Arriving a day early we were able to get our gas cylinder refilled and our genoa sail to the menders to have to have the clue stitched back on (from back in Dominican Republic where the two had parted company).
A walk around Nelson’s Dockyard is always a must-do as the yachts that moor there are spectacular, the museum and old buildings very interesting. The ‘classic’ yachts were gathering ready for Antigua Classic Race Week.
The long hot hike up to Shirley Heights was worthwhile for the spectacular views and the coastal path back down, again spectacular views.
Nelson’s Dockyard, Falmouth Harbour in the distance
Antigua Yacht Club in Falmouth Harbour, another must visit, did a very good evening meal and we met up with Steve and Rick from Grey Goose. At 0800 hrs the following morning we heard shouts of ‘Lady Rebel’ from the beach. It was Chris and Alison, our friends from the UK with their friends Martin and Sally, also from the UK, whom we’d not met. It was so exciting to see them. Mum had sent out some emergency N’espresso coffee supplies and a new part for the dinghy platform, which Alison and Martin kindly canoed over to us, plus some reminders of home from Alison (some Cornish ginger fudge and chocolate and ginger cookies – YUM!).
Ken fitted the new remote for the dinghy platform (the old one I’d drowned in the waterproof bag that wasn’t waterproof), Martin, our visiting crew member, read up on Guadeloupe, to be our next stop, and I deflated our canoe to put away ready for our trip back to the UK.
We all met up for lunch at the Galley Bar, Nelson’s Dockyard and spent the afternoon snorkelling, although visibility was poor, followed by drinks and nibbles at their beach apartment which was amazing.
at their beach apartment
In Antigua there is a well-known club amongst sailors called The Royal Naval Tot Club – allegedly the second most prestigious club in the World, next to The Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club!! In order to become a member of said Tot club, one must down 7 large (half gill) tots of rum at 7 different Tot venues, within a period of 14 days. The club meets at a different drinking establishment every night. A test on Lord Nelson also must be passed, a crib sheet being provided from which to learn the facts beforehand. Ken was keen to see what this was all about and they were meeting at 6pm at The Hot Spot Bar, Nelson’s Dockyard. Although we were not going to be in Antigua long enough for Ken to do his 7 shots (not allowed to be done in one evening), he could be presented as a guest attendee by the club President. Once a member, ‘one’ is entitled to fly the club burgee. Not only does the club meet daily for their ongoing tot of rum, they have Sunday morning PT, where they gather to clear footpaths and trails. They may do other things for the community. After Ken’s initiation tot and a brief chat with members we were back to the beach house for a last drink with our UK friends before we departed for Guadeloupe the following day.
Tot Club in a circle – Ken on the right!
That night, back on board, the wind picked up and boats were swinging all over the place. I stayed up on anchor watch and on a few occasions had to get a fender out as our neighbouring boat was blown too close for comfort! He was a member of the Tot Club, whom we’d met earlier at the ‘downing ceremony’, so probably had one tot too many to notice!!
The neighbouring boat came much closer than this but I couldn’t hold the fender and take a photo at the same time – multitasking beyond capability! I was entertained by a boat having to re-anchor in the dark with very little space. Rather them than us. In actual fact it was a good job we didn’t have to re-anchor in the middle of the night as early the following morning we were due to depart at 0630 hrs, to be on the fuel dock by 0700 hrs, check out with Customs and be away for our next destination, Guadeloupe, by 0800hrs. Boat and crew at the ready, our engine wouldn’t start ….. again. We went through the usual procedure unsuccessfully so Ken went off to check out with Customs and give himself time to think of a solution. He figured something in the electrical system was not allowing the stop solenoid to deactivate making the engine think it was permanently being told to stop. He came back with a wiring plan to isolate and bypass the fault, putting in a switch to make it safe to operate and genius, it worked, as a temporary fix at least. Chris, Alison, Martin and Sally waved us off, I guess wondering why we were leaving 4 hours later than originally planned! Thursday 12 April, Antigua to Guadeloupe, 50 miles, 8.75 hours, 2.3 engine hours, 5.71 knots average speed Total miles since leaving Falmouth UK in August 2016: 10714 It was fairly windy, 22 knots gusting 27, with over 2-metre-high waves hitting us side on, so not the most comfortable sailing, but we were making fast progress, up to 7 knots and although late leaving we would still make our destination before dark. Mid-afternoon there was a loud bang. The mizzen boom snapped clean in half. Luckily no-one was hurt and the sail hadn’t ripped. We donned our life jackets, clipped ourselves on and got the sail down as fast as possible.
We continued under the genoa alone, fast enough to still make landfall before sunset, deciding it not necessary to raise the mainsail as the wind increased further, to 30 knots plus! The anchorage at Deshaies was absolutely packed with yachts, motorboats and catamarans of all shapes and sizes. It was blowing an absolute hooley with the wind howling as it funnelled between the mountains, screaming as it swept over us and through our rigging. We couldn’t find a space close in so anchored out in much deeper water. This meant utilising all 80 metres of our anchor chain, a first for us. It was quite a struggle to keep the boat in position while we dropped the anchor, using the engine to try and take some of the strain until the anchor was well and truly set. A definite occasion to set our phone’s anchor alarm app. that works off GPS and sounds an irritating alarm if our position moves beyond a certain distance. A very useful and reassuring app.! We were keen to go ashore, Deshaies being the location of the TV series ‘A Death In Paradise’. Checking in was quick as Guadeloupe, being a French island, have a system set up where by you visit a designated café and input the information on a computer. We have visited French Caribbean islands previously so we are already on record, further speeding up the process. Better still, it only costs 4 Euros! We sought out the various TV locations and purchased a French stick and some Camembert (when in France ……………). The ‘shack’ is apparently only erected specifically for filming and Kathryn must have been having the day off!!
Our next destination was Basse Terre, the capital of Guadeloupe and the second largest city, where we would hopefully find a more sheltered anchorage in the lee of the land. It was less windy but very rolly.
Mizzen sail removed, folded and stowed, broken boom dismantled and secured, we set off ashore just before dark. In the pilot book it mentions a beautiful boardwalk lined with palm trees and ornate lampposts. We soon realised the area had suffered hurricane damage and had clearly been neglected, therefore somewhat desolate. The marina, where we moored our dinghy, was much livelier with local bands playing and artists performing. We enjoyed the atmosphere for a couple of drinks and headed back on board for a late dinner. Saturday 14 April, Basse Terre towards Pointe A Pitre, Guadeloupe: 29 miles, 7.67 hours, 5.6 engine hours, 3.78 knots average speed, Total Miles: 10766 The marina at Pointe A Pitre is where Lady Rebel will be moored for the 6-week duration of our UK visit. Martin was flying out of Pointe A Pitre the next day and we on the 18 April. The wind was strong and the seas rough. We would have delayed the passage until more favourable conditions, but with flights booked this was not an option! It was a hard, slow slog, bashing into the seas. We had our motor on to assist with progress.
I lost my salad all over the cockpit floor due to a wave knocking me off balance just as I was about to take a forkful; I’ll be picking up sweetcorn for days! It was definitely a day for life jackets and clipping on if we had to go out on deck. Not ideal conditions for Martin’s last sail of his holiday. At one point there was what looked like smoke coming from the engine exhaust. Although water was still coming out it was slowly overheating. We checked the water intake filter and it had blocked with seaweed, fortunately easily rectified. The sea surface was a carpet of seaweed, so much so that it was pointless putting the fishing line out. We had become experts in catching not only Barracuda, but copious amounts of weed, not the sort the Chinese fry up for dinner! As we rounded the South West corner of Guadeloupe, heading Northwards to our destination we were able to sail allowing the engine to cool. On reaching Pointe A Pitre, the engine was good to go. Getting into the Marina berth was very tricky as we (The Royal ‘We’ – actually Ken!) had to reverse Lady Rebel into a narrow spot between two other boats – a bit like parking a car in a multi-storey carpark, with not much turning room, the fact she doesn’t manoeuvre astern very favourably at the best of times adding to the difficulty. One of the Marina staff was there in his motorboat to kindly assist in pulling the bow round and we were safely in. And breath ………………
Martin treated us to dinner as a ‘thank-you for having him’ which was very kind and thus warranted a dress, sandals (as opposed to deck shoes) and even jewellery (that had been hidden since Haiti!) and that was just the boys 😊 ……… The marina complex is huge with many restaurants that attract the locals as well as the yachties. The atmosphere was buzzing and it was great to be able to step ashore instead of getting a wet bum travelling in the dinghy! Over the next few days we would prepare the boat ready to leave, utilising the marina’s water and electricity – clothes washing, deck scrubbing, sealing portholes, pressure washing etc. We would also visit the chandlery and riggers to enquire about a new boom! Boric Acid – a white powder deposited around the boat – would hopefully keep cockroaches, water bugs, fleas and ants at bay. Let’s hope Customs and Immigration don’t come on board for an inspection!! The fridge and freezer emptied and defrosted, gas off, stop-cocks closed etc. etc, slowly working our way down the check list; clothes packed, on-line check-in complete and all ready for the off, back to the UK – a long awaited re-union with family and friends, a hen and stag weekend and the wedding of two very special friends for whom I’m very proud to be maid of honour 😊. |
