The Cape Verde Island Cruise

Wednesday 19 October – Mindelo, San Vicente, Cape Verde

It was fantastic to arrive in Mindelo on the island of San Vicente, Cape Verde, after our longest passage to date, just over 5 days and nights at sea.  Thankfully it was an enjoyable trip with no major dramas – always a bonus!

After washing the boat and our bedding we joined Howard and Sue from yacht Sundowner in the floating marina café/bar.  They introduced us to the local drink ‘grogue’ which I since discovered is 40% proof.  I don’t remember a word Luke said at the seminar that evening (although I apparently contributed to the discussion – unlike me at the best of times – and even sounded sober!).  Ken stayed for the meal but I walked back to the boat with a crew from La Mischief and promptly flaked out.

Ken, on the other hand, had a very interesting evening!  After all the Barbados 50 participants had retired to their bunks he met up with a random guy, a delivery skipper who was keen to stay out drinking.  It transpired that wasn’t all he was staying out for.  After visiting several bars, moving on to the next as the one they were in closed, it became clear that this random guy was looking for ‘ladies of the night’. They attracted a couple, one of with whom random skipper man disappeared into the night.  The other offered to walk Ken back to the boat.  When he told her I was on board she decided to try and drag him into the park instead to ‘earn some money’.  Eventually she got the message and had to settle for 2 Euros to see Ken back to the marina!

Thursday 20 October – Mindelo

We joined the arranged bus tour to the North of the island via beautiful beaches, through farms/small holdings, up to the highest mountain at 765 m.  Relatively small in comparison with the canaries, but stunning all the same.

That evening we attended another seminar on anchoring techniques, which I do remember.

Friday 21 October to Tuesday 25 October – Mindelo

The next five days we stayed in Mindelo doing paperwork, boat chores, food shopping, searching for internet and gas, socialising with other boats and attending the welcome party with ‘grogue’, drum band and traditional dancing girls. 

Ken had picked up the stomach bug that was making its way around the fleet so missed the party.  I picked it up a few days later so we were ships in the night – alternately taking to our bed as the bug came, went and came back again. 

Wednesday 26 October – Mindelo to Faya d Agua, Ilha de Brava, Cape Verde.  146 miles, 29.25 hrs, 5 knots average speed, 11.5 engine hrs.

Total Miles:  2613.8

Today we started the cruise of some of the Cape Verde Islands.  Only about half the rally boats decided to join the cruise; some were keen to stay in Mindelo to get their boats ready for the Atlantic crossing, some just wanted to rest, some were poorly with the evil stomach bug.

We were still sick but decided to go anyway.  The first island was supposed to be Santo Antao but we heard on the VHF radio that the anchorage had a big swell running through it therefore was not comfortable so we changed course and headed to Brava.  We had three massive squalls during the night with torrential rain, thunder and lightning that lit the whole sky plus increased winds.  We could see them coming in on the radar so had time to reduce the sail area.  A few flying fish jumped aboard; I saw one land so was in time to throw it back but the others I didn’t see.  The wind rose to 28 knots; luckily we had warning so were able to reef the mainsail and genoa and drop the mizzen sail.

The anchor dragged the first time we tried to set it which is always disappointing as it’s a performance to wind in all the heavy chain and anchor and start all over again.  Still, better that than have it drag during the night and we end up on the rocks!  Second time lucky, it held.  We didn’t venture ashore as it was pouring with rain.  We were barely even able to stay awake to watch Breaking Bad!

Friday 28 October – Faya D Agua, Brava

La Mischief gave us a lift ashore in their rib early morning to do a mountain hike.  10 of us plus a guide.  It was extremely steep in places with some tricky narrow ledges. 3 hours in the heat was very tiring but worth it for the stunning views.  A little village shop at the top thankfully sold water; we drank them dry!!  We got the bus back to the anchorage for lunch then swam off the boat for the first time since we’ve had her.  The water was clear blue and as warm as a bath.  I took my mask and snorkel to check the anchor was holding properly and could see the chain running along the bottom, weaving in between small and very large boulders up to the anchor itself that had dug in nicely behind a further boulder.  It was very reassuring to actually see the chain and anchor doing its job and not just having to assume!  After a quick shower we dropped the rib, picked up Bill and Jade and went for drinks and nibbles on La Mischief.

Saturday 29 October – Brava to Fogo, 19 miles, 4.25 hrs, 4.47 knots average speed, 3.7 engine hrs.

Total miles: 2632.8

After a morning swim we discovered the fridge and freezer weren’t working, possibly due to an air lock in the water cooling system.  We rigged up pipework for cooling water to come from the galley sink, around the system and back into the sink.  Just what you need when you are trying to wash the dishes!  We also ran the engine for a while in case it was a power issue – which certainly helped.  After lunch we set off for Fogo.  Not far into our sail the pipe in the sink decided it didn’t want to be in the sink anymore and flooded the saloon, before we noticed as we were busy up on deck doing boaty things.  Wet cushions, boxes of food, tools, the engine room, lifejackets, you name it, everything other than the kitchen sink!  Nothing too major, just an inconvenience.  Nearing our destination we started to bring in the headsail.  The furling line got caught in the pulley, just as we hit an acceleration zone (where the wind funnels between the islands and massively increased in strength up to 30 knots).  Not great timing as we needed to get the sail in fast before the high winds did damage; we had to cut the line.  Very annoying as it was a brand new line that cost about £60!  Another inconvenience.  On arrival we moored against the dock wall with another boat moored up along side us.  There was a lot of wave motion in the harbour and we were surging back and forth making the lines snatch and the boat judder.  We were in for a noisy night. Just as well we all went out for a meal.  On return, one boat had to leave the mooring and drop anchor in the bay as the friction of the lines rubbing on the harbour wall, with the back and forth motion, had chafed right through them! 

Sunday 30 October – Vale de Cavalheiros, Fogo

Once we sorted our lines out i.e checked and protected them against chafing damage, we all went on an organised bus tour of the island.  Very green and stunning scenery.  We had lunch in the centre of a volcanic crater, in an amazing ‘traditional’ restaurant, in the middle of nowhere!  On the way back we visited a new village (the old one was destroyed in the previous eruption) and we gave the children gifts.  We’d each donated 20 Euros and had gift bags made up containing towels, t-shirts, toiletries, writing paper, pens etc.   The children were very happy; it was an emotional occasion.

Monday 31 October – Fogo to Santiago - 65 miles, 11.3 hrs, 7.9 engine hrs, 5.75 knots ave. speed

Total miles: 2697.8

Early start, 0610 hrs, just as dawn breaking.  We wanted to arrive before dark so motor-sailed most of the way as the wind was light and in the wrong direction.  The motor being on assisted with the fridge/freezer battery issues and we needed to keep the ice frozen for the gin and tonic on arrival, so we didn’t mind too much that we had to motor!  Our anchor set nicely first time but just to make sure we went for a snorkel to check it had dug in sufficiently.  Unfortunately we couldn’t quite see as the light was fading, but we were fairly confident it was ok.  We swam over to some of the other boats already anchored in this beautiful bay; rude not to, then as dark fell we watched the remainder of the yachts coming in and setting anchor by torch light.  Not an easy task judging distances from other boats and the shore.  We were pleased we’d got in in daylight.

Tuesday 1 November – Tarafal, Santiago, then Santiago to Ilha de Sao Nicolau, port of: Pta do Papagaios – 72 miles, 14.17 hrs, 8.3 engine hrs, 5.08 knots ave. speed

Total miles: 2769.8

La Mischief kindly gave us a lift ashore for yet another island bus tour, which saved us launching our rib.  We jumped in the back of a Toyota pickup, safari style; a bit of a novelty from the usual mini-bus.  The National Park was stunning and it was interesting to see how the families grow their own foodstuffs on small strips of land and keep goats, pigs, chickens, sheep, cows in very small numbers.  They trade labour for food, clothing etc.  They all help each other to ‘survive’, very much living hand to mouth.  The villages are very poor communities, concrete block houses lived in unfinished and unfurnished.  Some are made of bamboo and straw.  It was certainly an eye opener.  We guiltily lunched by the sea near to Praia; a beautiful setting.  After what seemed like forever on the bumpy road, wind swept in the back of the truck we were pleased to arrive back at the anchorage, just in time to weigh anchor for an overnight sail to our next destination, Island of Sao Nicolau. 

The wind was good but Ken was bad; still struggling with an upset stomach that he’d had since first arriving in Cape Verde.  I ended up doing a large chunk of the night shift, but it was worth it when we arrived at the stunning little bay, too beautiful for words. 

Wednesday 2 November – Sao Nicolau

We dropped anchor and our first task was to jump into the water to check the anchor was securely dug in.  The sea is so warm there is none of this gingerly dipping your big toe in to acclimatise.  Straight in, no hesitation, launch oneself, with a loud woo-hoo, bliss!  The anchor was only half dug in so I hand signalled to Ken to gently reverse Lady Rebel and sure enough the remaining half of the anchor dug itself firmly into the sandy bottom.  And relax!  This would lead to a good night’s sleep and eliminate the need for a regular night time anchor watch – always a bonus!  We do however always check we haven’t moved when getting up for a ‘tinkle’ in the night.

1600 hrs was party time on the beach to celebrate Simon’s 49^th Birthday (yacht Aura).  We inflated our canoe which is easier to beach than the rib, loaded up with drinks and nibbles and surfed up onto the sand.  It was dark by 1900 hrs so we headed back having had a very pleasant evening.

Thursday 3 November – Sao Nicolao

Ken still not well so I chilled out, read, swam to some of the other boats, messed about in the canoe, had a go on an inflatable paddle board (I really want one!) and did some snorkelling.  Back to reality when Ken surfaced – we finally got the generator charging although the inverter struggles with the heat and periodically cuts out, but it will help keep the fridge/freezer going.  Cleaned out the smelly fridge and set about trying to sort the fridge/freezer water cooling system (we still had the makeshift pipes in the sink!!).  After a lot of digging around with bendy bits of wire and pipe, I eventually pulled out a piece of cling film like material from the stop-cock that could have been causing the blockage in the sea water inlet.  Ken reconnected the system so we no longer had to have the pipes in the galley sink.  Quick rush to shower and change out of our bikini’s (or trunks in Ken’s case – apologies if you now have an image in your head of Ken in a bikini – ha ha, if you didn’t have then, you probably do have now!!) and off to the beach again, armed with drinks and nibbles, for yet another party.  No other boats were in this very secluded bay so we (Barbado 50 rally participants) had the beach all to ourselves.  Steve and Dee, from La Mischief, kindly invited us and a few others back on board their catamaran for a BBQ and dancing – one of many advantages of a catamaran – space to dance.

Friday 4 November–Sao Nicolau to Mindelo (Ilha de Sao Vicente), 45 miles, 9 hrs, 5 knots ave. speed, 5 engine hrs

Total miles: 2814.8

Departed anchorage at 0630 hrs after a lovely peaceful night’s sleep – no rolling, no noise from the wind generator, no halyards clanking, no creaks or groans from the boat in general, no doubt wine assisted!  It was a glorious sail back to Mindelo and after mooring stern-to in the marina next to Maisie we joined them for a drink aboard then went out for a meal.  Yacht Oyster Bar spotted us retuning and invited us aboard to join their party, for a night cap.

Saturday 5 November – Mindelo

Whilst doing routine boat checks, Ken noticed there was a worn patch on the corner of the mainsail (the tack), where it secures to the mast/boom, due to chafing.  This was extremely disappointing as it was a very expensive brand new sail, plus a tedious, difficult and time consuming job to remove in order to get it sewn – with stronger webbing to withstand the inevitable chafing.  We found a sail maker to do the job and painstakingly removed the sail.  It’s huge and weighs a tonne but we had no choice as Lady Rebel still has many miles to go!

Don (Ken’s dad), who is joining us for the Atlantic crossing, arrived at lunch time.  We dragged him off shopping for the non-perishable goods required for the crossing – water (24 x 5L bottles), tinned food, Coke etc etc.

Don was immediately introduced to sociable side of this rally with an invite for drinks aboard Madadji (Peter & Jenny). 

Sunday 6 November – Mindelo and Ilha de Santo Antao

We caught the 0800 hrs ferry to the island of Santo Antao, for an organised bus tour.  Santo Antao is supposedly the most beautiful and green of the Cape Verde Islands. It was stunning.  We went through various villages and past lots of families selling their home grown produce (mainly bananas and papaya) at the side of the road.  Most of their produce goes to Mindelo for shipping elsewhere.  We had a pre-organised lunch stop with set menu of traditional fish or chicken and bean stew, rice and couscous with ice-cream or cheese and papaya marmalade to follow.  The lunch stop over ran as we were all enjoying the live singer so it was a very quick stop at the distillery on the way back.  This stop too over ran as it was essential we tried the various flavours of ‘grogue’ prior to purchasing our preferred ones.  Pushing our luck – we were already getting late for the last ferry back at 1700 hrs – we chose to stop and purchase bananas and papaya from a road side seller.  Of course this took longer than planned by the time we’d all made a purchase so it was down to the driver to put his foot down.  There was a lot of concern and doubt on the bus as to whether we’d make the last ferry and what we’d do if we didn’t.  The ferry terminal was finally in sight with no minutes to spare.  The bus hurled down the windy road to the entrance, on two wheels around the corners. Hearing the bus’s horn madly tooting the security guard on the entrance barrier didn’t hesitate to raise it, having just lowered it, though sheer panic that we’d plough straight through it if he didn’t.  We could see the ferry had already removed the passenger foot ramp and was currently in the process of raising the car ramp, engines already revved up for the off.  The bus driver hurtled towards the ferry, screeching to a halt just short of the car ramp.  The captain clearly thought the bus driver wasn’t going to stop and would attempt to jump the gap so kindly lowered the ramp.  We all legged it from the bus onto the ferry, bags of grogue, bananas and papaya flying everywhere.  With much relief we made it and could relax in the ferry bar for the 40 minute return crossing to Mindelo.

Monday 7 November – Mindelo

The Atlantic crossing date of departure 9 November was suddenly very close and slight panic whether we’d be ready in time started to set in.  We spent the day doing chores, last minute washing, defrosting freezer, putting the mainsail back on, servicing the engine etc.  I left Ken and Don finishing the engine and went shopping for the required perishables.  Two shopping bags on wheels and one back-pack all brimming over, the supermarket didn’t accept any of my payment cards.  Their on-site cash machine was empty so I had to leg it to the nearest cash point holding up the customers in the check-out queue behind me.  Stress I didn’t need, especially in the heat.  Finally the shopping was paid for and I lugged it back to the boat, all hot and bothered.  To my horror one of the wheelie bags was accidentally dropped into the sea whilst being transferred from the pontoon to the boat.  I stood there for a moment in disbelief, watching the cardboard packaging of eggs disintegrate and the eggs sink to the bottom; oranges, apples and onions bobbing away, closely followed by the aubergines.  Butternut squash it appears, sinks!  After a few choice words there was nothing for it but to jump in fully clothed (having removed my purse and phone from my shorts pocket) and rescue my purchases; there was no way I was going back to the supermarket!  Angela from yacht Laraday came rushing along and assisted with her fishing net.  Between us we rescued most of the items.  She reminded me that at least I wouldn’t need to wash the fruit and veg before stowing it on board as most of it was already done!  I asked her to apologise to her children for me for my inappropriate language.  Having put the shopping away, the atmosphere onboard pretty tense, we went out for the rally dinner.  I left after my starter as was feeling rubbish and could tell that no amount of wine was going to assist on this occasion.

Tuesday 8 November – Mindelo

Determined to have a better day I rose bright and early in order to complete the remaining chores in good time and hopefully with minimal stress.  Ken and Don completed the engine service while I made up salads for the next 5 days.  Ken chased a cable he’d ordered for the fridge/freezer which sent him to various shops in town (time he really didn’t have to spare) and we were also waiting for a tap on the bow to be fixed which should have been done days ago; no sign of the guys who’d agreed to do it, apparently not uncommon in Cape Verde.  A final trip to the gas bottle filling station and the pharmacy for more ‘poorly tummy tablets’ and eventually the completion of the tap, meant we were as ready as we were ever going to be for our Atlantic crossing.  Jimmy Cornell held the skippers briefing at 1600 hrs which covered amongst other topics, weather, routes and sail trim for the crossing.  I phoned Mum and Dad to tell them we were set to go; it was very emotional – like leaving Falmouth all over again!  Ken phoned his Mum and sister Anne too.

We were then able to enjoy the farewell party at the marina which included prize giving for the best cocktail (sadly we didn’t have time to enter this), the biggest fish caught – I got a consolation prize for my small fish entry, and finally best photo, which Ken was awarded 3^rd prize – a great achievement considering the number of photographs submitted in total.  Ken submitted the three photographs below; we are yet to discover which one gave him third prize. 

We went out for dinner with a few of the other boats and retired early ready for the big day!