St Lucia, UK, Carriacou and Grenada, 12:0.1 N, 61:44.43 W
St Lucia, The UK, Carriacou and Grenada – Sunday 18 December to Sunday 12 February 2017 We moved the boat from Barbados to Rodney Bay Marina, St Lucia, as it was a safer place to leave the her whilst we went back to the UK for Christmas and the New Year. The swell was too strong in Barbados and we’d already snapped a few lines!
Reindeer sunglasses and Christmas t-shirt, perfect for St Lucia and such forward thinking – thank you Anita! We booked our flights at extortionate cost from St Lucia to LGW, 21 December to 13 January and were very much looking forward to seeing family and friends and having a holiday – a break from boat chores!! We had to complete and pay for a permit to leave the boat, including full inventory and inspection by customs! More forms. In order to assist in emptying the fridge and freezer so we could switch them off whilst we were away, we invited Stormbreaker and Modjadji, who were also in St Lucia, for dinner & drinks. Any excuse for a party! Maisie came in from Barbados the following day and we assisted with their lines and with their docking totty! They, like us, had a bumpy crossing. Our last evening on the Island for a while, we dined out with Maisie, Stormbreaker and Modjadji, at a wonderful beach restaurant called Spinnakers. Packing done we flew back to the UK and spent three wonderful weeks catching up with family and friends from one end of the country to the other – Falmouth Cornwall to Lismore Scotland, incorporating Newton Stewart, Sutton Coldfield and Harbury. 2000 plus miles later, lots of parties, a spot of golf, walking, a wonderful Christmas and New Year, Mum’s 80th Birthday celebrations and a decent hair cut each, we returned to the warmer climate of the Caribbean! Day one, full of enthusiasm, we were straight back into the boat job list. We contracted a local engineer, Roger, to come and finally fix the dinghy outboard after all our outboard skills were exhausted! Provisioning done, new data sim cards for our mobiles, time to sample the local rum at a nearby street party. We took Peter and Jenny with us for morale support! The rum was disgusting and nearly blew our heads off. Still, when in Rome …………. Over the next few days we were challenged with installing a new heads (toilet) pump, a new galley mixer tap, fixing the fridge/freezer, fixing the remote control on the dinghy platform, installing shut off valves in the shower pipes, plus many more items on the never ending list. On one trip to the local DIY store we bumped into a Rustler 36 owner who I knew from the UK – small World. We did have a break to test out the newly fixed outboard and went for a blast around the bay outside the marina towards Pigeon Island.
Many of our evenings, trying to dry out after the three weeks socialising in the UK, were spent absorbed in watching Breaking Bad. We were dreading the series ending as we had become so addicted! Wednesday 18 January 2017 – St Lucia Rodney Bay to St Lucia Marigot Bay, 10.0 miles, 1.75 hrs, 5.71 knots average speed, 2.8 engine hrs Total miles (since departing Falmouth in August): 4934.8 We didn’t need to check out with immigration as we were just hopping along the coast to Marigot Bay. The ‘hop’ was however, eventful! Ready to depart the marina we came to start the engine – nothing. The batteries were fine, starter motor ok, fuel primed and the rest of our engine knowledge tested to the limit, it was time to call out the engine man, Roger, once again. He discovered the relay was loose and got us up and running. Shortly after leaving the pontoons but before reaching the marina exit the engine started to make a load ‘throaty’ noise, setting off the overheating alarm and then promptly cut out. We didn’t even have any sails up as we were still within the marina confines, now aimlessly drifting. Ken tried the engine again and luckily it ran intermittently so we limped over to the nearest place to moor which was the fuel pontoon and breathed a massive sigh of relief. Once our heart rates had come back down to the norm and the engine temperature had also come back down to the norm, we made further engine checks and saw water was pouring out of the exhaust hose in the engine bay. A mad dash to the local chandlery we replaced the hose which surprisingly went on easier than expected – good old Fairly Liquid! We turned over the engine – nothing. By this time we were getting anxious to leave as it was 1530 hrs and we needed to allow time to get to Marigot Bay and moor up in daylight. Sunset was around 1800 hrs. After a chat with our new engineer friend Roger we discovered one of the starter motor terminals had melted during the engine overheating. Another mad dash to the chandlers and 15 minutes of Ken hanging upside down in the small confines of the engine bay and the engine was running perfectly. Finally we were on our way. The passage down took us past the famous Pitons. Luckily the squalls were in the distance! We didn’t need any more excitement for one day!
We spent a couple of days relaxing and exploring the eateries of the beautiful Marigot bay with Peter and Jenny. Having picked up one of the hotel’s mooring buoys, within the cost gave us use of their facilities including dinghy dock, pool and gym (which I used once, halo!), the pool more often! The bay, even though small had a few very impressive super yachts.
Friday 20 January – Marigot Bay to Tyrell Bay, Carriacou: 89 Miles, 17.5 hrs, 18.2 engine hrs, 5.08 knots av speed Total miles: 5023.8 Modjadji set off North for Martinique. We checked out of St Lucia with immigration, which took an age, as were heading off to a different country – Carriacou (an island part of Grenada). Having filled up with fuel, which also took forever – there is certainly no urgency in the Caribbean and certainly no point getting frustrated - we departed South at 1700 hrs for an overnight sail arriving the following day at 1030 hrs. Having gone ashore in Tyrell Bay and done the tedious six form check in with customs and immigration we spent a couple of days mixing work and play. The water was clear enough to dive down and check the propeller that had been vibrating. Not only was it covered in barnacles but it had some heavy nylon wrapped around it which was fairly easily removed. We also checked the anchor had dug in satisfactorily (always makes for a good night’s sleep) and that the ropes under the boat were still holding the dagger-board up. One had slipped off but the other two were good. The local beach restaurants were simple but good and even had wifi! The numerous mosquito bites we departed with weren’t so good. Unfortunately they seemed to like me better than Ken, even when I was covered in citronella, tea tree oil, or deet spray, swallowing vitamin D tablets and eating copious amounts of garlic – all of which mosquitos are supposed to dislike! In one of the restaurants we got chatting to a couple who owned a Rustler 42, no. 12! A small World once again! Exploring the small island was easy and cheap by hopping on the local, if slightly dilapidated bus. A heavy swell developed in the bay and we were rolling quite badly, so badly in fact I nearly spilt my tea (it’s not all about gin and tonic!!).
Monday 23 January – Carriacou to St George’s Grenada: 29 miles, 5.5 hrs, 5.27 knots av speed, 3.4 engine hrs Total miles: 5052.8 It was a cracking sail initially; a perfect broad reach under full sail with 22 knots of wind. We didn’t even mind the odd squall. The wind went round on the nose but we were still able to hold our course and make good progress. Then we came into the lee of the land and the wind dropped to nothing so we decided to motor. The engine wouldn’t start. We couldn’t believe it. Ken looked at the relay and starter motor terminals, battery, fuel etc. all seemed fine. We weren’t keen on dropping anchor or picking up a mooring buoy under sail in a crowded anchorage as we’ve not practised this in Lady Rebel and it’s not easy at the best of times. Ideally we wanted to go into St George’s Port Louis Marina for shore power to top up the batteries and fill up with water and we certainly weren’t going to attempt that under sail!! Ken phoned our now best friend Roger for advice. He said we should hear a click from the relay if that was working ok. Ken turned over the engine while I had my ear to the relay and I heard the click, then I heard the engine start! Miracle, we didn’t even do anything – Roger must have very magic powers we decided. Certainly a mystery that’s for sure, but we were happy with relief once again and successfully moored up in the very luxurious Port Louis Marina.
After discovering the fee for a one night stop in the marina, an extortionate £74, we decided to stock up on food and water and move 8 miles around the corner to the stunning Prickly Bay and drop anchor at no cost! I was uneasy about the first anchoring, it seemed to drag quite a lot before it finally dug in by which time we were quite close to another boat. Ken decided it would be easier to move than have me ‘unsettled’ (stressed!) for the evening!! The second attempt was much better and the holding seemed good. It was however quite rolly which makes Lady Rebel very squeaky and noisy below decks, so I slept the first night in the cockpit, or rather didn’t sleep, but the sky full of magnificent bright stars compensated. Gary and Louise, catamaran Takomoana who we knew from the rally were anchored a couple of boats away so we spent time socialising with them and other people they’d met, trying various bars, restaurants and drinks on each other’s boats.
We heard good reports about the surveyor and boat yard services in Prickly Bay so decided to have her lifted and surveyed (a 5 yearly requirement for insurance purposes) and get the dagger-board sorted once and for all. The surveyor coming gave me the incentive to give Lady Rebel a proper spring clean. It took me three days but was worth it as the surveyor said what a lovely boat we had J. Ken used the time to fix the fridge/freezer – the thermostat was playing up and do various other bits and pieces. A bit of excitement one afternoon; Gary from Takomoana came alongside in his dinghy asking for Ken’s muscle to help fend off a boat that had dragged its anchor onto another boat. Luckily the owners returned fairly soon and were able to re-anchor their boat. Unfortunately there was quite a lot of damage to the boat they had dragged onto, so they would be contacting their insurance company!
We hated every minute of being lifted at Spice Island Marine, having been dropped in the hoist last time we were lifted back in the UK causing a lot of damage and 6 months out of the water! I couldn’t watch. All went well thankfully. They surveyor picked up a few things aside from the dagger-board that we needed to attend to – nothing too major fortunately but expensive needless to say. A new cutlass bearing and a new rudder strap. Whilst we were on the hard we took the opportunity to have the bottom antifouled and the propeller, bow thruster and rope cutter cleaned of barnacles and repainted along with the hydrovane rudder (the self-steering gear and our emergency rudder).
We were going to have a bolt put through the keel to hold the dagger-board up in place but Nick, the guy from TechNick who was doing the work (and also an Irwin 52 owner, hence us contracting him) suggested we have it cut out and removed completely. As the dagger-board is not used for ballast we decided to go for this easier option and they cut through the bolts on which the board pivots and it fell out. Finally we were rid of the offending object!
One of the disadvantages of being on the hard, aside from not being able to use the fridge, freezer, air-conditioning or heads – which meant a walk across the yard to the facilities during the night, or peeing in a bucket, was the mosquitos. At one time I counted 63 bites and they were all itching like mad, driving me crazy. Back in the water after 4 days, we motored the 8 miles back around to St George’s anchoring in the bay this time, not the extortionate marina. I had been taking antihistamines for the swollen bites and they made me extremely lethargic – must get non-drowsy ones next time! The water was clear and shallow enough to check out the anchor by snorkelling. It wasn’t quite dug in fully as had got caught on a small rock, so we reversed back some more for a better holding.
We had arranged to meet up with Nick and Karen Aimes who we knew from Falmouth and were visiting by cruise ship. We were going to do some sight-seeing but after a few bars and rum punches that went out of the window! We visited Grenada Yacht Club and delivered them safely back to their cruise ship by rib later that evening.
Saturday 4 February – St George’s Bay. Start of Six Nations Rugby! We missed Scotland beat Ireland but took the rib to Umbrellas Bar on Grand Anse beach to watch England beat France. We couldn’t beach the rib as the swell was too much so Ken dropped me off a little way out (waist depth) then took the dinghy out to a mooring buoy and swam the short distance ashore. It didn’t take long for us to dry off. The following day we motored 12 miles South to Clarke’s Court Bay where we’d contracted an engineer to service the generator. We had to buy a new battery and the engineer had to rebuild the water pump but the generator now runs like a dream. We can use the washing machine, Nespresso coffee machine and have hot water all whilst at anchor as can now easily recharge the batteries without having to run the engine or have the fuses trip.
We changed the regulator on the gas having caught the bus to the chandlery at St Georges for the parts and had a beautiful, inexpensive meal at a quaint little restaurant called Little Dipper, overlooking the bay we were anchored in. I don’t normally have lobster as, although it’s one of my favourites, it’s usually too expensive but on this occasion I couldn’t resist as it was such good value!
Tuesday 7 February – Grenada’s 43rd anniversary of Independence from Great Britain – Bank Holiday. We spent most of the day in Clarke’s Court Marina making use of their wifi to catch up with paperwork, blog, internet research etc. then went over to Taffy’s Bar and Island Breeze Bar where they had very loud live music to celebrate independence. All the bars, restaurants and houses were prettily decorated and walls and pavements painted in their 3 colours being red, yellow and green. All the locals, adults and children, wore handmade outfits in the same 3 colours. It was spectacular. Our ears were ringing for days! The following day we did a tour of the island. I was feeling pretty rough due to too much rum the night before but it was still a fabulous tour. We saw lots of different fruits growing on trees including grapefruit, papaya, bananas and mango plus numerous nuts and spices including cashews, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, cocoa and garlic to name but a few.
We saw (and sampled) chocolate being made and also took in a rum factory run the old-fashioned way – water mill to drive the sugar beet crusher and wood furnaces to distil. Ken sampled the produce but I was still off rum!!
Above chocolate factory, below rum factory.
We had a traditional lunch and stopped at a beautiful waterfall and beach, ending up at a local rum bar where I abstained. Ken tried their ‘under-the-counter’ rum which is 70% alcohol by volume and dark green in colour having been flavoured with many herbs and spices.
I got up at 0730 hrs every morning to listen to the local net on the VHF radio that gave information on weather, services and social events. The weather reports didn’t look good for few days for us to set sail North to our next island destination so we stayed put in Clarke’s Court Bay for over a week. There was plenty to do including an amazing snorkel at the underwater sculpture park. It was a long swim from the beach and around a headland but we wanted the exercise and it was well worth it (plus the boat driver wanted the equivalent of £60 to take us round!). The sculptures were very realistic and the fish amazing. Below, although not a good picture, shows a shoal of sardines swimming around us!
Our weekend was centred around the rugby with England beating Wales on Saturday and France sadly beating Scotland on Sunday, plus a traditional English roast pork Sunday lunch! The half time views were stunning!
We certainly made the most of the stunning scenery as, weather permitting, we were planning on departing for our next Island destination at 0630 hrs the next day. |
Anita, one of our walking friends in the UK, had sent us off on our travels back in August with Christmas presents which we were allowed to open early! 
We picked up a mooring buoy just as the sun was setting, next to Modjadji where Peter and Jenny had much needed cold beers and wine waiting for us!
Gary and Louise, Takomoana in the foreground. Derek and Leanne, Ocean Diamond II in the background – the owners of the boat that dragged – having a few beers to forget about the day’s events!
