Update from Suwarrow - 13:14.91S 163:06.51W

Alex Belmont
Sat 17 Sep 2011 00:14
We've been on Suwarrow (also spelled Suvarov) Atoll for five days now. This place is pretty incredible. Only two caretakers, James and John, both from Roratonga, live here. These guys are so welcoming, taking time to teach us about the island and how they live. on our second day on the island, John took us fishing, catching three good-sized coral trout (like a grouper) and a nice jack in less than an hour. Then he showed me how to husk, open and grate coconuts. Martin and I did this, and then squeezed the grated coconut to make fresh coconut milk. This, a bit of yellow curry powder and some coral trout came together into a very simple and delicious curry. The atoll is also home to many sharks, mostly black-tips and greys. The black-tips are curious, but generally not too aggressive. They have however learned to associate the sound of a speargun with injured fish, so Tom had to get back in the dinghy in a hurry when a few black-tips started getting a bit too friendly. One beach on the island is used to dispose of fish scraps (no swimming allowed), so every sunset you can find at least twenty sharks waiting in the shallows. as soon as you toss a bucket of guts and carcasses, they condense into a writhing mass, with more swimming in to join the frenzy. It is very cool watching upwards of thirty sharks, some as big as six feet long, thrashing about in the shallows just a your feet.