37:44:316N 25:39:870W Ponto Delgada Sao Miguel Azores
Shaya Moya
Don & Susan Smyth
Tue 21 Apr 2015 11:57
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After a great overnight sail we arrived in Ponta
Delgada in Sao Miguel one of the western most islands of the Azores islands. The
voyage from English Harbour to the Azores had taken 21 days and covered 2361nm.
One more leg of 800nm and we will be in Portimao in the Algarve, Portugal. Here
we will leave the boat under the care of Tom and where Ted first flies to London
to visit Natalie and grandchildren Alex and Sophie before returning to real life
back in South Africa. I will take a break and join Sue in New York who I have
not seen since the 13th of January, nearly 4 months apart. What an amazing wife.
Susan's support and encouragement over the last 18 months of this second half of
the circumnavigation is what has made this possable. I cannot find the words to
express the love and gratitude that I feel. Thank you.
  Sao Miguel is the largest of the islands in the
Azores at just 750 square kilometers, and it has the largest population at
around 140,000.It is a green and lush island with dense natural woodland and
acres of carefully tended crops and pastures. The Portuguese first settled here
early in the 15th Century with emigrants from mainland Portugal, Madeira, a
smattering of French, convicts and African and Moorish slaves. The island had
its fair share of trouble in those early years with first the Spanish
occupying the island and then the English sacking and burning the first port
Vila Franca do Campo. After an earthquake destroyed the town in early 16th
Century, the government moved the capital to Ponta Delgada in the west. This
soon became a bustling and thriving port not only for the provisioning of ships
enroute to the Americas and Europe, but also to export wheat, suger cane, wine,
dairy products, and later sweet potatoes, flax and oranges. Ponto Delgada is the
largest city in the Azores and with its narrow streets and bustling atmosphere,
is a good place from which to explore the island.
  We cleared customs and immigration in the marina
office in 15 minutes or so. Very efficient with all our details already in the
computer from our stay in Horta. If only some of the other places we have
visited could take a cue from the Portuguese. The marina built a new extension
to the west which is where we were directed to berth. Sadly this side is not
well used and the seagulls have laid claim to most of the pontoons with the
inevitable mess.
  This did not deter us from heading into town to
explore. We were surprised again how clean the islands are, no litter anywhere
and very little graffiti. The people are friendly and most speak some English.
The numerous squares and gardens are interspersed between modern shops and
domestic and religious buildings from the 16th Century, characterised by carved
black ashler, heavy ornare woodwork and the glazed tiles so loved by the
Portuguese.
  We had a quick sushi lunch the first day and then
back on board for an afternoon nap. Tom had researched Trip Advisor for the most
popular restuarant for the evening, deciding we would have a starter in one and
then go for mains in the best. We had a great tapas starter in a little tapas
bar we found and then wandered off to find Reserva, the top place. Well we
discovered why its called reserva, it was fully booked for the Wednesday. So
back to the first place to finish off dinner. Ted discovered an interesting
flamed local spicy sausage, while Tom had his much loved blood sausage.
  Sharing various dishes is a great way to eat. We
managed to get into Reserva on Thursday. What a treat. Similar tapas but with an
upmarket touch. The owner run place is small and specialises in Portuguese wine.
I was humbled when we took a bottle of the red after he gave us a tasting. I
have always thought of Portuguese wine as not really up there, but was I
mistaken. If you can find a bottle of either of the wines in the photo you will
not be disappointed. Have it with some of the delicious seafood or the
traditional Portuguese Bacalhau.
   We would have loved to stay and explore more of the
island, however Chris our weatherman was urging us to take advantage of a
favourable wind pattern to set sail for Portugal. We have had one of the most
pleasant crossings so far, beam reaching along at 7-8kts on calm seas. A treat
to be on a stable platform as appossed to hanging on for dear life. The passage
should take us 5-6 days.
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