01:02.659N 080:16.147W Panama to Galapagos
Shaya Moya
Don & Susan Smyth
Tue 7 Jun 2011 00:49
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We have stocked up with fresh salad and vegetables,
time to refuel and then set off on the anticipated long slow leg to the
Galapagos.
We had bought two 200 litre fuel bladders ( to be
lashed on deck) as additional fuel for the Pacific as the
distances between islands are huge, and diesel is not available at every
island. After our trip from Cuba to Panama we needed 800 litres of fuel in the
main tank and 400 litres in the two bladders giving us 1200 litres in total,
more than enough for what we have planned.
  After refuelling at 13h30 we waited for our agent
Peter Stevens to bring our clearing out documentation and passports planning to
leave no later than about 15h00. He was delayed and we were still waiting at
about 16h00 when Reece suddenly smelt diesel fumes. One of the fuel bladders was
leaking, we had diesel all over the foredeck. Thank goodness it was pouring with
rain. We had to siphon off as much of the diesel into the jerry cans we had. We
had met a South African family emigrating to Australia, Simon, Sharon and
there small kids and Simons friend Mat, on a South African built catamaran
called Liquid Living. They were jus coming into the marina to refuel. We gave
them the excess fuel we could not take with us in exchange for them buying
dinner at the local Italian Albertos. The fuel bladder we ditched unrepairable.
This had delayed our departure so we decided to stay and have the dinner leave
first thing in the morning.
After a wonderful evening at which I pitted Reece's
fishing prowess against Simon and Mat ( the prize being another dinner somewhere
along the way) we were in bed early ready for the off. First light dawned on
Friday 1st June and by 06h30 we motored out of the marina on the first leg of
our Pacific journey.
 The trip from Panama to the Galapagos goes through
the Inter Topical Convergence Zone (Doldrums for us Oldies) and could be a
boisterous into the wind beat with the occasional squall bringing high winds, or
a lot of motoring to try to get down to the Equator before turning right and
heading for the Galapagos The most logical route is to head South down the coast
of Columbia to Ecuador to about the equator and then heading west hoping for
some help from the South Equatorial current. We have retained a weather router
based in New Zealand, Bob McDavitt, who advised us to do just that. He also
warned us that we would encounter a lot of heavy squalls and rain. He was to be
proved right.
What an eventful day this was. We motor sailed into
a light south westerly wind . I inputted the route coordinates that Bob had
emailed us in the chart plotter and we headed for the first
waypoint.
While I was charging batteries, making water and
generally ensuring that everything was stowed away and ready, Reece was wasting
no time in working towards winning the fishing competition. Before I hade even
had time to sit back and relax, he was calling for me to slow down as the reel
hissed with the line whizzing out, his first of 7 fish caught that day, what a
start They were smallish Tuna which he scoffed at and released with utter
confidence that the big one was yet to come. At about 14h00 the reel
screamed again, this was something big. After about a half an hour fight he
landed a huge 8-10kg Mahi Mahi. Fish for dinner. Maybe I can get Reece do make
his famous fish curry?
Squalls there most certainly are. We have been hit
with a dozen or so, from minor to a 6 hour 30+kt one where the rain was so heavy
you could hardly see to the front of the boat. Couple this with the waves that
were 2-3m and short it was a very demanding 6 hours. Shaya Moya handled with her
usual aplomb, shrugging off 100's of litres of green seawater over the decks
and motor sailing through the waves with ease.
 Dolphins suddenly appear from all quarters, dozens
of them small ones and large ones. Some play in the bow wave while another one
puts on an aerial display by leaping out of the waves and doing a pirouette
before gracefully slipping back into the sea. This is the most dolphins we have
seen on our entire trip so far.
The problem we had before where we could not turn
the main engine off has resurfaced, so we have to motorsail until we find out
how to stop it. II was onto Oyster to find out how to manually stop the beast,
there must be a manual stop lever somewhere. Looking through the manuals we
found it, however I could not see how to work it. As it was dark now we decided
to wait for the next day to continue to resolve it.
When I took over the watch from Reece at 22h00 he
decided to have a look, donning his headlamp he dived into the engine room. Now
you must understand we are motor sailing at 7kts into the weather bouncing from
side to side, so this is no easy task. Ah the wonder of youthful eyes. In a
flash there was a cough from the engine and then silence What bliss. We were
finally sailing after nearly 40 hours of motoring. Of course when we wanted to
start it again, nothing happened, however we know how to bypass that problem. So
here we are in manual mode with the Perkins. Not a problem just a nuisance. We
think we have diagnosed the problem and Oyster are sending the relevant spares
to us.
The sky is overcast with heavy cloud. There is no
moon. Pitch dark, just the glow from the instrument panel. Shaya Moya is sailing
at 5-6kts due south into the bay of Buenaventura in Columbia, wind and tide
against us. Reece tacks back onto port and heads back out to sea. I lie in
my bunk watching the instrument repeater on the bulkhead. All goes
smoothly and we are powering back up to 5-6kts in no time, Full mainsail, Yankee
and Staysail flying. The crew is coming together. No need to get up until change
of watch
 Weekend 4/5th June is an eventful one for us our
here. We got visitors at first light on Saturday. Two Sabine Gulls ( we
think) the first one lands on the TV dome and looks quite ludicrous as he
struggles to maintain his balance. Soon what could be his partner lands on the
Bimini. She looks like she might have hurt a wing. The dome shxxxxr soon gets
Reece going as he is the one who has to clean up the mess. After numerous
buckets of sea water thrown, seagull continues to return to his perch. We decide
to leave them be they must be tired. Not long after a third joins on the Bimini.
They spend the entire day with us until sunset and then they are
gone.
The reel screams again. Reece is sleeping down
below. Shout to him, FISH FISH. Quick as a flash he is on deck and working
that fish. It jumps out of the water, another Mahi Mahi, much bigger this time.
It takes almost an hour before Reece has it next the boat, I grab and hold the
rod while he takes the line, lifts the fish and gaffs it. NOOOooo the swivel
parts and the weight of the fish rips the gaff out. He is gone. Must have been
at least 10kg. Damnation.
  Sunday is huge excitement as the reel screams
again. This time is different as Reece applies the brake to slow the fish down,
nothing happens. The line continues to fly out even with the brake full on. Then
it happens, amazing sight. A beautiful blue marlin leaps high out of the water
and tail walks 50m or so before diving back down into the deep. Back up again,
another huge leap wonderful to watch. No time to get camera, and anyway by now
too far behind us. The line continues to fly off the reel, Reece is laughing
with excitement and fear ,is he going to loose the line? Maybe even the rod and
reel?. Then as quick as it all started it was over. When Reece reeled in the
lure was gone, just the steel trace left. What power and beauty. We are glad he
got away.
In between all this activity we still cooked meals,
kept the boat neat and tidy. Did the washing and all the usual household
chores.Reece would find time to make a new killer ziller lure for the next big
fish.
  So folks, those of you who ask what do we do with
ourselves all day out here on the briny, don't we get bored?? One can ask what
did we do of a weekend back home. Certainly not as exciting as this was
it!
As that great song by Crosby Stills & Nash
says...When you see the Southern Cross for trhe first time You understand now
why you came this way
 
The Southern Cross
We are now finally sailing in sunlight again after
days of overcast weather, squalls and rain. We have the gulls ridding pillion
again. Reece has just had two reel screams but no fish yet. We are 25nm west of
Ecuador off Cabo San Francisco, finally heading west. Only hope the wind stays
like this all the way to the Galapagos
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