Thursday 9th Feb Caique Beach, Isla Contadora, Las Islas Perlas, 08 37.20N 79 02.25W

Today’s blog by Bob and Linda.

Good heavens Thursday already, departure day, apologies dear readers for our lack of updates but when at anchor, especially in a place like this there is just so much to do.

But to start where we left off: Sunday took us to San Miguel on the large island of Isla del Rey.  Certainly it was larger than any settlement that we had seen previously but sadly at about the same level of neglect.  The bay shelves gently so that we were compelled to anchor some distance out. At first this seemed a disadvantage until we realised that we were close to a large Pelican colony.  The Pelicans had clearly not recognised that it was a Sunday for they  continued an unceasing routine of diving throughout the day or at least until the rising tide covered their resting place. 

Going ashore in the dinghy we were able to see the feeding frenzy at close hand and later a large flock of Cormorants joined to pick up the leftovers.

We ground to a stop on a beach that was mainly stone and broken glass and realised the true worth of Crocs. 

San Miguel as we approach

Making our painter fast to a nearby groundline we were met by its owner who offered to find us fruit.  We ordered Bananas and Papayas then set off for a tour of the settlement which boasted four telephone boxes, and a fire station.  A city by local standards.  Being Sunday much of the populace was in one of the three churches, the bar, wisely did not open until 1pm.

  The dusty trail through town

Back at the dinghy our local man was waiting with a HUGE stem of Bananas and 4 beautiful Papayas which we wrestled on board after drowning the equally HUGE Cockroach who was trying to grab a ride with us.  The afternoon was spent dividing the Bananas up into bunches that are now stowed in every available space and then cleaning the deck of the sap which the stem exudes when cut.  Talk about industrial strength!

It was a beautiful evening, we sat on deck and admired the stars in a cool breeze and gentle swell.  That was until nature intervened and sent a stiff Northerly breeze to kick up the sea and leave us thumping the swell for the rest of the night. Not a lot of sleeping done.

By Monday morning we were glad to leave our anchorage and take a steady comfortable sail North to the Island of Contadora which is  the World ARC rendez-vous for the start of the next leg.

  Part of the fleet at Caique Beach Contadora Island

By popular consent Contadora is the nicest of the Las Perlas Archipelago.  A lovely beach on the South side, a bar with Internet,  three mini supermarkets (which logically makes them just “markets”) and a small but busy airstrip.  The island has roads and many fine mansions.  This is clearly the place where Panama spends its money. 

 We toured the markets in search of top-ups for the soft drinks, returning with a jar of Mayonnaise and a bottle of Rum instead.  Then the day went downhill.  The rising tide had put our dinghy close to the waters edge so that we could not use the kedge anchor to hold the bows against the surf.  Manfully our skipper stripped to the waist to enter the surf and hold the dinghy while we boarded.  Wisely he had emptied his pockets of all valuables but we suspect that this was the point at which the boat keys became part of the flotsam and jetsam that roams the ocean’s edges.  Certainly they were nowhere to be seen in the watertight bag when we reached the ship and despite conducting search patterns until nightfall the keys remain unfound.  By good fortune there was one unsecured hatch which allowed David to break into his own boat.

Tuesday was washing and exploring day and Wednesday a day to prepare for the 800 mile trip ahead.

Wednesday evening WARC organised a dinner and prize-giving which we enjoyed immensely as we were awarded second place in our class, meriting a Mola placemat and a selection of branded goodies from a local drinking water company. Entertainment was provided by “Nina”, allegedly the winner of American Idol. With the help of her two macho dancers/fire-eaters she held out well against an audience now well into the free beer and Sangria.  The show ended with an impressive display of fireworks and somehow 107 well-oiled sailors managed to return across the island to their ships without mishap though perhaps a special mention for the crew that used the runway as their return route to the beach.  Good on yer mates!  It was a great social evening to set us up for the ocean miles ahead.

This morning we are all busily preparing for the mass start at Midday.  The sea calls, we must go.