21^st October 2010   16 45.23N 22 58.8W

The term "unprepossessing", which we used to describe our impression of Palmeria, Sal,  has been proven to be  a masterclass in the use of  litotes.

Palmeira is the main sea port for the island of Sal. Freight is landed here as is oil pumped ashore for use in the desalination plant (it is said to rain on Sal only one day a year; this year's rain came on the day of our arrival!) as well as Jet A1 aviation fuel for the airport.  The port looks pretty third world:

Yes that IS a sunken trawler on the right. ….

And this is the Reception  Committee waiting for us on the dinghy landing:

The town consists of largely breeze block constructed buildings, with a few older buildings close to the harbour’s edge. It is very African with traders from the Gambia and Senegal waiting to fleece any passing tourist  foolish enough to buy their original ethnic wares.

We managed to finish immigration formalities on Wednesday morning (there’s another tale) and then sailed down the Baia de Mordeira about 5 mils south where we anchored overnight. There was some good snorkelling but in water made choppy by the 20 or so knots of wind blowing through the anchorage.  It also did a good line in blow dry hair styles  as Richard determined…

Then back to Palmeira on Thursday to prepare for Anthony’s and Richard’s departure.

Some of the older buildings in Palmeira are colourful:

(Richard, David and Anthony).

The left hand graphic is a depiction of this Island and you can see the capital is Espargos, to which all roads lead. So,  yesterday,  having spent a desultory Wednesday evening in the bar which yachties have colonised* we headed into the bright lights of the city to celebrate our successful voyage.  (*Van Christenhelm’s bar is little more than a bush bar set on the forecourt so a small shop – the accommodation comprises  two tables made by cutting a telegraph cable drum in two with a number of box wood pedestals as seats. No lights nor loos!)

First, we sought to flag down a passing taxi in the main street of Palmeria:

On arrival in Espargos we found a little more activity in its main street….but not all that much more:

The male population were gathered in the shade

everyone seemed to be playing cards…..

Save for one enterprising guy with a sewing machine who would do “repairs while you wait”.

After a quick sharpener, in a café which appeared to be the main attraction for tourist groups, Richard and Anthony went to  the airport to check on  flight details,  Bob and David searched  out somewhere to eat. The Hotel Atlantico looked a reasonable prospect but when we sought  to make a reservation we were told that the restaurant was closed.  They did recommend somewhere the other end of town (Restaurant Benvenass) where the grouper fish was actually rather good:

……………..and our digestive systems survived to tell the tale.

SO…… if it is really the way we tell it, why are there tourists at all?  Well, that is simple. Just as in the Canaries, Spain and elsewhere, there has been huge investment in the tourist industry. There are a number of large developments of villas and apartments (hundreds at a time) in walled compounds – we imagine they might be  self-sufficient with bars and restaurants. The Tui or Thompson tour guides take them out on sightseeing tours – of which the quaint fishing port of Palmeira is one such destination – thus, groups of Aspro white tourists saunter around after  the obligatory loud voiced tour guides describing the finer points of each destination and watering their charges in which ever  bars and restaurants give  the biggest  kick backs.  C’est la vie!

The largest such developments are around the town of Santa Maria on the south tip of this island, a town to which we repaired last night for dinner. Much more the holiday resort we have grown accustomed to and the food was good to.  Thence, back via the airport to drop Richard and Anthony off for their 01.30AM flight home and then on , back in the taxi to Palmeira and to bed.

Small wonder, on reflection, to learn this morning that we had been boarded by a local while we were out.  Our dinghy “”T/T Serendipity” tied up at the dockside “trumpets” our absence. Further,  we thought we were assisting the local economy by asking the guys on the dockside to help us get a taxi to the furthest point of the island  but at the same time we were conveniently making clear that we were to be gone for some time.  Fortunately, though, we had diligently locked up and stowed anything moveable from the decks and fortunately also Adrian from Blue Moon saw him board and was able to chase him away so, on the face of it at least, nothing was lost!

Welcome to paradise…..!

Having now completed exit formalities, we will set off to the Island of Sao Vincente in a couple of hours time.