From the outback to the reef
We were very sad to leave the white
baking soda beaches of Isle of Pines and head back to the mainland, and the
contrast in the landscape couldn’t have been more dramatic. Baie du Prony is a large, beautifully
protected bay with anchorages and arms in all directions. Its most startling features are the blood red
earth and sparse vegetation. We honestly
felt like we had anchored somewhere in the Australian outback!
Not only is the red powerful visually,
it’s also mighty powerful once stuck to any part of your body or the boat. Red soil = red mud and the goo stains like
you wouldn’t believe. The soil is rich
in minerals and there is evidence of past and present mining all over the hills. It’s not exactly a wilderness experience. At the end of many of the arms are small
streams you can explore in the dinghy with many walking tracks taking you to
old mining sites and ruins of the many penal colonies which the French were so
keen on in the late 1800’s.
There’s also a bit of thermal activity
about, and someone has even made a fabulous hot pool only accessible by dinghy.
The stream by dinghy tours also provide
some great photo opportunities for reflections.
Although it can get shallow if you don’t
time the tide right – but its ok if you can get a “dinghy tow” – this gives
only 1 pair of red feet J
In the centre of Prony you will find the
lovely Ilot Casey. It’s a nature reserve,
with the only white sandy beach you’ll find in the area. I comes complete with some very scenic walking
tracks well maintained by Parks and Reserves people.
There is an abandoned resort on Casey
and the only permanent resident is the very famous “Brownie”. He’s a legend because he enthusiastically
greets everyone who lands on the island and proceeds to give you the full tour. Here’s Brownie in his “guard house” by the
wharf – the vantage point from where he can watch all the comings and goings.
He had a great tour guide – even showing
us the best beach for a swim half way round.
We have had the most beautiful weather
since we’ve been in New Cal and faced with a period of light winds we decided
to head back down to the Southern Lagoon to go to spots that you can only
safely anchor in overnight when the conditions are light.
Holy Moly – we knew that the Islands
themselves would be beautiful – but we weren’t really prepared for how
beautiful it was underwater. Being on
the very edge of the lagoon near the open ocean, we’re talking crystal clear
water and wall to wall hard coral of every colour possible. We haven’t seen hard coral like this since
the Great Barrier Reef in Oz – it was equally as spectacular – possibly
better.
At a chilly 23 C – all you need is a
full wetsuit and you can stay an hour at a stretch – we honestly didn’t want to
get out – even when the first shark did a “drive by”. Lucky for us it wasn’t time for a takeaway
lunch!
Sadly we needed to be making our way
towards Noumea as we developed a problem with some of our electronics on the
passage from Vanuatu and we want it sorted before heading back to NZ. Even though New Cal is “part Europe” the
other part is still definitely “South Pacific” as “island time” is well and
truly alive. Nothing happens quickly and
throw in the ol’ French style 2 hour lunch and it gets pretty frustrating L
On the way back we stopped at the famous lighthouse at Amedee – right on
the edge of the outer reef. We had hoped
to stagger up the 321 steps and get what is supposed to be a pretty impressive
view of every colour of turquoise possible, but unfortunately if was
closed. It was still a very impressive
structure especially since it was shipped out in pieces from France in 1862.
The waters around this Island are part
of a marine reserve and are infested with green turtles. You can swim around side by side if you can
keep up and they kept popping up all round the boat long after we’d got out of
the water.
Right now we are in the marina in Noumea
which has resulted in another assault on our favourite Patisserie and a bit of
“retail therapy” while we wait for the AIS unit to arrive from NZ. Prices here for most things are about the
same in NZ – this is certainly not the usual cheap living costs of other south
pacific islands – but anything that is imported from France is much cheaper
than what you can buy them for in NZ.
Plus you can’t deny the quality and style of French clothes and shoes in
particular – If only the boat (and the wallet) was bigger!
So that’s about it from us. Hopefully our new unit will arrive in a few
days and we’ll be out of here. We have
used this time to prepare ourselves and the boat ready for the passage back to
NZ and in a week or so we will officially be on “weather watch” for a window to
head back to NZ. We’ll be seeing you all
soon.
Take care Linda and Carl
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