38:31.8N 28:37.5W - Black Beaches & Black Lava Supper
Yellowdrama IV
Skipper/Crew: Blake and Clarissa Richter
Thu 1 Oct 2009 19:39
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Hello Blog
Yes...we are still here in the port of Horta on the island of
Faila in the central Azores, approximately 1500 km from Lisbon in mainland
Europe. The Azores are thus in the mid-Atlantic and divided into 3 groups
based on their geographic position. The island of Faial is slap bang in the
middle of this central group and within ferry distance of the other central
islands: Terceira, Graciosa, Sao Jorge and Pico. Plans to sail across to Pico,
our nearest neighbour island were shelved once winds rose and clouds conspired
to draw a veil over the summit.
Instead, on Tuesday, the Y4 crew hired a mini van and embarked
on a 6 hour jaunt around the island; an island which surprised us in several
respects. There is, we are pleased to say, more to Faial than just the marina
facilities here in Horta. We ascended the cloudy summit to a height of 3,000
feet and peered deep inside a dormant volcano.
We visited the admirably constructed interpretive centre
and lunar-like landscape of Capelhinos where the last volancanic eruption
in the Azores in 1957 added approximately 2 km to the island's territory and led
to the instigation of the Azorean refugee programme, which in turn led to the
migration of over 4000 islanders (Faialense) to the United States, in large part
thanks to John F. Kennedy. In fact, the Azores have strong links to this day
with the USA, with many islanders having been born in the states or having
cousins among the large Portgese diaspora stateside.
A lunch of local soup, sheeps bits and the world's smallest
steak sandwich was taken at a roadside cafe commanding magnicifent views of the
ocean somewhere on the road to Salao. Having seen the windy top of the
island in the clouds (brrrrrr..), we descended to sea level and then
literally descended into the sea. Natural swimming
baths at Varudouro were a new experience, where the angry northern ocean swell
thundered through a metal grill into a pool carved out of the volcanic
rock, sometimes with enormous force to the great mirth of the boys. Wisely, the
girls watched from a distance. Suitably refreshed, the Y4 van pulled into
yet another roadside cafe for coffee and some delicious unidentified
coconut-covered, chocolate ball things. Sasha, Andrew and Mark played what must
rank (and will rank for years to come among the locals, who looked on agape) as
the most convoluted, ignominous and haphazard game of pool in the history
of the Azores. 'You've pocketed the white ball once more'..., 'I
thought I was playing the spotted ones...', 'Which ones am I playing
again?....' 'It's your go..no..I've just played..did
you?? etc.
Finally returning along the southside of the island, we popped
into 'Cafe Pim', perhaps the island's hangout for the 'alternative scene' if
indeed it has one. Supper wasn't bad but the service was very friendly. At this
point it is worth pointing out that the Azoreans are not the
most...hmmm....extravagantly friendly people. Somewhat stand-offish and on
occasion somewhat non-plussed, they seem to view visitors with an air of
nonchalance, only changing their countenance when the
visitor courageously mumbles a few words of Portugese, at which point
some basic plesantries can be exchanged. It could be said that the inability to
speak English (or unwillingness) is remarkable considering the volume of
visitors to the island each year (on average 1400 yachts annually). In any
event, Peter's Cafe has been our daily refuge now that the weather has taken a
turn for the worse. For the sodden yachtie, Peter's is a home from home. Today,
Thursday, Sasha, Andrew and Mark visited the local lukewarm swimming pool on
Thursday for a whopping 7 Euros 50 cents per head!! and took a taxi back to the
marina to avoid the winds and rain that emerged suddenly that
afternoon.
Things may well calm down tomorrow, when we expect to get
underway. Once we do set sail, our blog entries may well be get shorter as we
are forced once again to rely on our expensive satellite connection to the
outside world for emails and postings to our blog. Do not worry.
We have enjoyed our week's respite and look foward now to getting under way.
It has been a refreshing and relaxing time in
Horta
Before, we go, we must mention a restaurant in the marina that
served a cracking meal of prawns, squid, tuna, chicken and steak (each!!!) along
with piping-hot black basalt upon which to cook the aforesaid feast - all
for 16.00 per head. It's a must if you come to the Azores. Delicious and a
bargain!!
More soon from the Azorean Y4 crew, Blake, Clarissa, Sasha,
Steve, Andrew and Mark.
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