Arrested in Colombia

Avalon
Tue 10 Jun 2003 15:15
Having enjoyed a day and a half's break from sailing, the sites and supplies
of El Rodadero, and a good meal washed down with cerveza at our new friend
Eddies restaurant we when back to Avalon for an early night.

At 3am the alarm sounded and in our best remote control we upper sail and
anchor and turned Avalon towards the San Blas Islands of Panama (90miles
from the Canal).

As a nice breeze carried us Becky when down to catch a few hours sleep
before swapping watch. As she drifted off at about 4.30am the VHF radio
cracked and the word Avalon caught her ear, Humm. George popped his head in
to say there is a boat approaching us, better get some clothes on! The VHF
much clearer this time "sailboat Avalon this is Santa Marta Coast Guard, we
need you to return to Rodadero". After trying to enquire "why" I stuck my
head outside and in the first reaches of the morning light I could see a
25ft high speed open boat, 6 uniform clad men with machine guns along side
Avalon!! Ok we had better turn around! we were escorted closely back to the
Rodadero anchorage.

Again the a call came over the radio and the commanding officer in his
excellent but heavily accented English said they needed to come aboard our
vessel. "Rodger Sir please come aboard" we said, some what anxious but not
truly worried as we felt we had done nothing illegal and had nothing to
hide. This was bound to be a matter of $100 USD and some paper work to
officially clear us into Colombia; why now when no one had been interested
before?

The patrol boat pulled along side, 2 men and their big black boots and guns
stepped gingerly onto the ever moving decks of Avalon. The commanding
officer (an attractive quite man of 25ish) sat in the cockpit with us and
asked why had we not responded to our summonsing on the radio for the last 2
days. 'Where were we going and where had we come from, can I see your
passports and papers". Of course we were going to Cartagena (the capital) to
clear and pay. Mean while the other man did a quick search through the boat.


After ascertaining that we were not running drugs or guns and us apologising
for not keeping a better ear on the radio, our coast guard friends asked us
to wait at Rodadero till 12 noon when a Puerto captain would come round to
sort out the necessary paperwork. Right on time a very slick 35ft ocean
going grey cigarette boat pulled along side (a drug chasing boat if ever you
saw one, only 2 months old!). The handsome commanding officer from earlier
and a clip board carrying young Port Captain stepped onboard both sweating
profusiously under their long sleeve and legged black uniforms and life
jackets. They were very polite and apologised for pulling us up, but did
they did not and us to have a hard time in Cartagena so we must meet them
ashore at 2pm to do the business. We could not even offer them a cold drink
as we have no refrigeration. They both stuck their heads down stairs and
said it was a lovely boat but we were "crazy gringos", "were we really
sailing back to Australia?" I quickly agreed, "yes we are crazy!!"

Two pm. we rowed ashore trying not to smack any of the hoards of Colombians
bathing at the waters edge with our oars. Bec stayed with the dinghy while
George went to meet the Puerto Captain. The whole problem now revolved
around the fact that next 2 days were public holidays and this Port Captain
was not senior enough to clear us in and his boss was away on holiday!!!!

An hour and a half later, I had pulled the dinghy right up to the foot path
under the palm trees for some shade, discussed Colombia and the world with
my new Colombian friend Alfredo, and was now sitting in the dinghy talking
to our every present tourist guide friend Alfonso. Alfonso who had assisted
George with translations said George was all clear with the Puerto Captain,
no money required!!! Great. He was now at the internet cafe, Alfonso could
take me there now?

First we dragged the dinghy up to the Police stand 30 meters away and parked
it next to the bikes and motor bikes to be watched by the cops, a very
amusing site. I found George very happy and relieved, the problem was solved
by suggesting could we sail straight to Panama, "oh no problem, why did not
you say before, no papers, no money if you go to Panama". George brought
everyone beers and the Puerto Captains son a hot dog, everyone was happy,
happy. Alfonso, George and I walked back to the beach, with $100 saved it
was time to celebrate with a meal and beers at one of the numerous beach
front restaurants. Seven pm. we were back on Avalon to get a few hours sleep
before we pulled the anchor up at 1.30am to head for Panama. This time we
did manage to escape Rodadero, a quick radio call to the Coast Guard assured
them we were not drug runners and they did not need to come and chase us!