Update and first leg back, to Bermuda
Thisbe
Wed 23 May 2007 23:31
Circumstance have made it difficult
to keep the diary going. We are now preparing for the return trip across the
Atlantic so it will be more settled for the next five weeks or so. I have spent
the last four months exploring the islands on different boats, some of which I
have written up some not. Most of the islands from Tobago Cays to Antigua have
now been touched on, some explored more than others. Sue flew out to join me on
24th April and we enjoyed a very pleasant few days sailing prior to coming back
to St Lucia for Jazz week. A very bouncy ride up to Martinique was very
worthwhile, its only about 20 miles across the gap but it can sometimes be quite
challenging in a small boat, not at all dangerous, but very wet due to the
angle to the wind and Thisbe's low freeboard. The port of Le Marin has
a modern marina complex which is very convenient but a bit 'temporary'
looking. The busride to the main town of Fort de France is very
interesting. Canefields and coconut plantations line the road for miles,
industries which are very run down on all the other islands, but
which the French seem to be able to make a go of, probably has something to
do with the EU but don't ask me how it works. All power to the French for taking
a proper interest in their farflung colonies. During our visits to the
French islands we were introduced to Ti Punch, a lethal
mixture of the local white rum (150%), sugar and limejuice. A relaxing
sitdown with a cool tasty drink is swiftly followed by an urge to get up and
dance. During one such soiree a shortage of partners was remedied by
dancing with a chair, the spinoff being that one doesn't get slapped
when the punch prompts other urges. Soufrierre is a little town nestling
at the foot of Petit Piton, one of a pair of huge pointed mountains
rising straight out of the sea, and for which St Lucia is
famous, they also appear on their flag as a national emblem. Approaching it
we were met quite a long way offshore by a local boatboy who introduced
himself as ' Bushman' offering the usual anchoring information and
assistance. There was also a young boy in the boat who Bushman said
was his Brudder, well almost, 'same Mudder different Fadder' were his exact
words. He urged us not to miss the jumpup in the town square that night,
quote ' white people will probably be there' which made us laugh. We
noticed a smell of sulphur as we anchored, we mistook it for a drainage
problem but later discovered that is was wafting down from an active
volcano, boiling mud and a very strong sulphur stench when up close. We spent a
very entertaining two days there, the jumpup, (a kind of street party
attended by hundreds, live music and even livelier dancing) was an eye
opener which I couldn't begin to give you the feel of in words except to say
that you wouldn't see the like in England if you lived to be a thousand. It was
kind of sad as well as the poverty is palpable. St Lucia Jazz is an
internationally famous event and attended by people from all over the world.
Giant catamarans loaded with revellers fill up the marinas and all available
anchorages creating an unforgettable atmosphere. The venue for the music is
the beautiful Pigeon Island, the lower slopes of a small mountain leading gently
down to a futuristic stage inside a half dome with the sea surfing in as
backdrop. All around are quaint and picturesque stalls selling food and
drinks, the smell of exotic spices from the cooking wafting around in
the warm air makes for a delicious ambiance.
The supporting acts sent on to
warm up an already boiling crowd, were stunningly talented, the young drummer in
a jazz quintet called WES, brought the crowd to their feet, totally overawed by
his almost Godgiven brilliance. One of a pair of twins, his brother
was also a very gifted on the piano. How many times have you
been praying for a bass solo not to end ? We enjoyed two evenings and
two almost full days of music. John Legend brought the house down. Imagine
about thirty people on the stage, spotlights hanging from the roof of the dome
whirling and stabbing up into the velvet black sky. Dancers in
white, slim and writhing as the lights picked them out for attention,
young, tireless, and totally enthusiastic. Rhythms which I have only ever
heard in the Caribbean throbbing and pulsating, vibrating your bones in
their sockets. Musicians, infected by the roaring crowd, playing
to the best of their seemingly limitless ability. I am a man advancing in
years but I found myself on my feet waving my arms in unison with everyone and
trying not to let people see the tears running down. All this fronted by a
great performer and singer, needless to say we had a great night. I could
go on describing the individual acts ad nauseum but will spare you that.
George Benson raked up some great memories, Al Jarreau who has now teamed
up with George, was a bit of a disappointment. I will end this little
narrative for the moment as I am halfway through my T
Punch, Richard and Joel, new crew for Atlantique, are exterts at punch
manufecture. Bye for now.