Lat: 39:03.1. N : Long: 027:58.1 W. Wednesday, 2nd July, 2014 at anchor in Vila da Praia, Graciosa.

Sulana's Voyage
Alan and Sue Brook
Sun 6 Jul 2014 22:18
Lat: 39:03.1. N : Long: 027:58.1 W. Wednesday,
2nd July, 2014 at anchor in Vila da Praia,
Graciosa.
We
separated from "Resting Goose" for a few days, as they took the Dodgsons off to
visit Horta, and, the following day, we went off in the other direction,
towards the Northernmost, small Island of the Central Azorean Group,
Graciosa.
There
were very few people living on Graciosa, and it felt very much like a
non-tourist stop place indeed. The only people to be seen were either
Governent officials, like the Postman, or just folk busy talking, fishing,
sunbathing or simply playing
after school on the small, dark sand 'praia'. Occasionally one came across
small family groups hanging out red, mossy-like seaweed to dry in the
sun on their outhouse roofs.
We could
not find a single restaurant to eat out at in Vila, but the GNR (Guardia
Nacional Republicana) still needed to fill out our clearance in form, albeit
very politely and simply.
We all
hiked up to the Caldeira at the highest point of the surrounding land and then
descended into the very mouth of their famous active volcano, to visit the
Furna de Xenofre. At the bottom of the crater is a large cave created by the
previous eruptions and lava flows. In the cave is a small lake with a
rowing boat on it and a small mud hole that bubbles (just like in
Rotorua in NZ). It slowly steams away, sending up various noxious gases
into the atmosphere, including Co2 and 222 Rn, as well as Sulphur.
There were numerous gas monitoring stations set around the cave, making sure
there was not a repeat of an earlier accident that now prevented one from rowing
across the lake in the dinghy, when two visitoirs were overcome and sadlly died.
Climbing back out of the caldeira htrough the road tunnel that now simplifies
entry, we then hiked all around the mountain, getting good island coastline
views, but not too exciting otherwise. Nelius and Jason briefly explored a
large lava tunnel that started by the roadside where a collapsed roof
portion was visible in some farmer's backyard. They then also went into
the
cave at the Furna da Sta Maria Enamorada, where yet another lava
tunnel went right through the mountainside and came out back in the
caldeira. Alan was feeling the pace of the hike and minimised his interest
in side attractions to just the hike around the caldeira and back to the
harbour, reckoning that approx. 20kms for the day was quite enough, thank
you!
Eventually
we walked back to the harbour past rows and rows of stone walls, covered in
darting dark green lizards, past horses, mules and donkeys, all desperately
looking at us to give them some more tether length, so they could reach the
green grass that remained tantalisingly out of reach. Their small grazing fields
were so tiny they could quickly eat up all there was there to
offer.
There is more
to see in Graciosa, for sure, especially if you are into cooler water scuba
diving, but we were not realy aware of what it was, as, unlike other
islands, there was no tourist information to collect and read in Vila da
Praia. So we decided not to wait there too much longer, as the visible sights
were less spectacular than others and we wanted to witness the famous bull
running and festivals of the next island of the chain,
Terceira. |