Bay of Islands, Newfoundland to Red Bay Labrador.
51:43.907 N 56:25.832 W
Saturday 23rd July 2016.
Distance sailed 209 miles, 1062 miles from Southwest Harbour.
Our day began with breakfast in the Whaler Restaurant which was good, excellent sausages. Shelduck is just north of Baltimore Ireland here in Labrador. Red Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There was a thriving whale fishery here for about 70 years beginning in the 1530's. Whalers from the Basque region of Spain and France used the harbour of Red Bay as a seasonal base for hunting whales and processing whale oil. Four 16th century whaling vessels have been found here in the harbour along with several smaller boats used by the whalers. On display, in one of the exhibition buildings, is a nearly complete chalupa found under the remains of the San Juan, a galleon which was lost in a storm at Red Bay in the autumn of 1565. It is another foggy day but thankfully no rain as we enjoyed the walk between the exhibition sites. We napped in the afternoon, trying to keep warm, and awoke to more rain and fog.
On Monday 18th of July as I walked to the Bay of Islands Yacht Club clubhouse I was pleased to see a diesel truck filling a large boat. On enquiring about a fill the driver told me he could not. On the way back to Shelduck I met two men on the pontoon and talked about the reason the driver might have refused me diesel. It seems he would have only marked diesel which is illegal to sell to yachts. One of the men offered to drive me to fill our diesel containers. During our return from the fuel station I discovered he was Byron Caines of Byron Electronics whom I had in my diary as one of the rare Raymarine technicians in Newfoundland, small world. The Yacht Club, like many in Canada, is volunteer run and not often open. Members have keys and one of them opened the door to the showers for us and we enjoyed the hot water. Clothes washing machines are also available and the marina itself is well protected and quiet.
Shelduck departed at 15.15 and beat under headsail in a fresh breeze the 14 miles to the harbour at Woods Island. The entry is tricky but well described in the CCA Pilot The Cruising Guide to Newfoundland. We found the pontoon, which is owned by the Bay of Islands Yacht Club, with just one boat on it, a Crystal Waters Boat Tours vessel. This gave us confidence to go in where we were helped to dock by Carroll Redden whom I had met on the marina dock earlier just before his tour. Some of the party were scattering the ashes of a friend on the island. Later we watched a couple working around one of three houses nearby. After dinner, at about 21.00 there was a knock on the hull and I invited the two men there aboard. They had seen the Irish flag and were curious. They were native to the island and cousins but had been relocated to the mainland as were all inhabitants after the burning of a church and a schoolhouse. They introduced themselves as Reg and Gord Hackett of Irish ancestry but they did not know from where in Ireland. I suggested maybe Waterford and told them the story of the Sack of Baltimore and the Hackett connection. We enjoyed wine, chocolates and chat with them for an hour. At 22.00 they invited us to their house for cards which because of our 05.30 start next day we reluctantly refused.
On Wednesday 20th Shelduck had a run in 15/20 knots of wind to Crow Head. This harbour is well protected with nice timber covered walls so no fender boards required. Early start again next morning with an exhilarating broad reach of 56 miles in 20 knots to Port aux Choux which many trawlers use as their base. It was difficult to find a place to tie up but the Coast Guard allowed us berth at their floating dock for the night. We dined ashore at the Anchor Cafe and finished off with the local dessert Figgy-Duff. I did not try it, Anne and Peter shared one and were not impressed. It consists of black and white small cubes of sponge covered with a vanilla custard. After dinner we walked to the memorial to settlers of 3000 to 5000 years ago. Early to bed and early to rise for a light wind motor sail across the Straight of Belle Isle to Red Bay Labrador. We saw one whale making its way west and three going east and many dolphins who followed us as Shelduck crossed the traffic separation zone. As We approached Red Bay fog came down and I found myself slightly on the wrong side of a port mark. Having the fog lying on the water and the near land above on view was confusing. We docked at the government wharf in a bomb proof spot tucked inside the south end. I had to come out once during the night to adjust fenders when the wind came up. There was very heavy rain throughout the night. Water is crystal clear here you can see 6 metres down.
