Tuamotos - Rangiroa

Questionable Logic
Ewan Briggs
Mon 13 Jul 2009 08:56
Position: 14deg 15.10S 147deg38.16W
 
We found ourselves with a little more time before having to get to Tahiti than originally planned (long story) so we decided to stay for a bit longer in the Tuamotos, and to explore another atol, this time Rangiroa - the biggest and one of the most developed. This also gave us a good anchorage to ride out about five days of stronger winds which noone was keen to do any passage making through. And allowed us some more time to enjoy Sea Topaz hospitality in the evenings, since they came here to pick up Stefan and Yael, more family who've flown out for a few weeks holiday.
 
Whilst the stronger winds meant we couldn't safely go and explore some of the atols attractions away from the anchorage, it did mean we could get the windsurfing kit out. After a few breakages and wrestling with the gusty conditions we had both my kit and Dad's kit rigged up and working. We all (Tuck, Jem, Dad and I) had brief sessions just to blow the cobwebs out and long enough to realise that the gusty conditions weren't great and it was probably time to get back to the boat for tea and buttercake.
 
The stronger winds also affected the diving. The larger waves breaking over the atol in places and raising the waterlevel, such that the usual inflow at the pass pretty much disappeared, leaving strong currents going out most of the time, with some pretty impressive 2m standing waves (looking forward to that on the way out!). We'd heard all about the bigger animals that can be seen here, so were a little disappointed at the end of our first dive having only seen about 50 sharks (yes we really have been spoilt!!). The second dive however was an epic. A couple of dolphins that played with us and were happy to be stroked for starters. Then we followed a manta ray down to about 42m (bit deep, oops). Fortunately the manta came back up again and we were able to swim very close to it - stunning animal. Then the usual sharks just at about the end of the manta ray chapter, and then the swim back into the pass with the surge from the incoming swell. We also spotted a turtle chilling out head-first in a cave. He came out pretty quickly though.
 
Rangiroa has much more infrastructure than we've become used to - traffic! and even has it's very own vinyard. Tuck Jem, Stefan and Yael went to explore and try each and everyone of the wines on offer (all three of them...).
 
After the forecast 5 days the wind started to drop, so we decided it was time to move on again, heading for Moorea (next to Tahiti). This was very much a passage of two halves. The first day rained like I can't ever remember seeing it rain before - never such a heavy shower for so long. I was easily able to fill up our water cans, buckets and waterproof bags using the water running off the mainsail. The wind was all over the place in both strenght and direction, visibility was down to about 100m. But we managed to safely navigate our way out of the Tuamotos and towards the Society Islands (Tahiti, Moorea etc). The second half was sunny, steady winds of about 10-12kts and only the odd cloud...!
 
    
View from the top of the mast                                        Jem and Tuck cycling mission