Tuamotos - Rangiroa
Questionable Logic
Ewan Briggs
Mon 13 Jul 2009 08:56
Position: 14deg
15.10S 147deg38.16W
We found ourselves
with a little more time before having to get to Tahiti than originally planned
(long story) so we decided to stay for a bit longer in the Tuamotos, and to
explore another atol, this time Rangiroa - the biggest and one of the most
developed. This also gave us a good anchorage to ride out about five days of
stronger winds which noone was keen to do any passage making through. And
allowed us some more time to enjoy Sea Topaz hospitality in the evenings, since
they came here to pick up Stefan and Yael, more family who've flown out for a
few weeks holiday.
Whilst the stronger
winds meant we couldn't safely go and explore some of the atols attractions away
from the anchorage, it did mean we could get the windsurfing kit out. After a
few breakages and wrestling with the gusty conditions we had both my kit and
Dad's kit rigged up and working. We all (Tuck, Jem, Dad and I) had brief
sessions just to blow the cobwebs out and long enough to realise that the gusty
conditions weren't great and it was probably time to get back to the boat
for tea and buttercake.
The stronger
winds also affected the diving. The larger waves breaking over the atol in
places and raising the waterlevel, such that the usual inflow at the pass pretty
much disappeared, leaving strong currents going out most of the time, with some
pretty impressive 2m standing waves (looking forward to that on the way
out!). We'd heard all about the bigger animals that can be
seen here, so were a little disappointed at the end of our first dive
having only seen about 50 sharks (yes we really have been spoilt!!). The second
dive however was an epic. A couple of dolphins that played with us and were
happy to be stroked for starters. Then we followed a manta ray down to
about 42m (bit deep, oops). Fortunately the manta came back up again and we were
able to swim very close to it - stunning animal. Then the usual sharks
just at about the end of the manta ray chapter, and then the swim back into
the pass with the surge from the incoming swell. We also spotted a turtle
chilling out head-first in a cave. He came out pretty quickly
though.
Rangiroa has much
more infrastructure than we've become used to - traffic! and even
has it's very own vinyard. Tuck Jem, Stefan and Yael went to explore and try
each and everyone of the wines on offer (all three of
them...).
After the forecast 5
days the wind started to drop, so we decided it was time to move on again,
heading for Moorea (next to Tahiti). This was very much a passage of two halves.
The first day rained like I can't ever remember seeing it rain before - never
such a heavy shower for so long. I was easily able to fill up our water cans,
buckets and waterproof bags using the water running off the mainsail. The wind
was all over the place in both strenght and direction, visibility was down to
about 100m. But we managed to safely navigate our way out of the Tuamotos and
towards the Society Islands (Tahiti, Moorea etc). The second half was sunny,
steady winds of about 10-12kts and only the odd cloud...!
View from the top of
the
mast
Jem and Tuck cycling mission