Portsmouth Dominica
Malua
Harry Watson Smith
Sat 2 Feb 2013 08:37
I left Saint Pierre on Martinique at dawn with barely a glow in the east. I was not alone for there was a mega yacht that set off a few moment after I pulled up the anchor. I set a course for a half mile off the point and went below to make some breakfast. There was no-one at the helm but I looked out the companion way to see the mega yacht Sundowner steaming off my port quarter. I though it was now appropriate to go topsides just to let them know that there was in fact someone in command. As I appeared and waved a number of hands rose to wave back .They must have been watching Malua to see if there was someone aboard. They quickly disappeared into the distance as I hit the first big swell and gust of the open sea of the passage between the two islands. The wind rose to just over 22 knots so it was time to put at least one reef in. I furled the genoa and adjusted the helm to about 60 degrees apparent wind. A close reach but wet as the seas which had built to quite a swell hit the side of Malua and were carried aft with the wind. The boat was going like a train and the waves where coming over the bow and down the side decks.
I had a dilemma to reef down and slow down or keep going. I chose to put a second reef in and slow down but I did not. All we did was reduce the heel and the number of waves coming over the bow. The speed was maintained.
It is about 27 nm to the tip of Dominica which should have take four hours but the time flew and before I knew it I was passing Scotts Head with a 50 ft American registered Oyster hot on my heels. Out came the first reef, then the second. Then the genoa was unfurled and the original Americas cup off New Port was on again.
I trimmed the sails, changed the course and chose a course where I would get the best wind in the tricky variable winds in the lee of the island. I was pulling ahead of the Oyster and and a 48 ft French boat. Then the wind dropped off to nothing so on went the engine but I furled the genoa. I maintained my distance from the Oyster and the French yacht fell way behind even though they were also motoring.
My course put me in a good wind corridor and Malua's speed went up over 7 knots. Off went the engine and the race was on again. I was going as fast as Malua could go and gained about half a mile on the Oyster but the wind angle came forward and I had to beat into 20 knots of wind. I was going well however the Oyster seemed to point higher than Malua and they were coming at me at a pace.
I did everything I could to get a few extra knots but nothing would make the boat go faster. The Oyster passed to windward with a full genoa and an fully furled in mast reefed main. Only when he was ahead did I see that his engine was on and he was motor sailing past me. That's not cricket.
I arrived at Dominica which it is said to have the highest rainfall in the Caribbean and vast tracts of unspoilt natural vegetation. Clearly it is overgrown and the street all have wide storm water cutters down the side. Chris Doyle who writes the cruising guide likes the place and writes it up as the best island in the Caribbean. He also sings the praises of the boat boys who have formed an association to regulate their behaviour. It is known as PAYS. He recommends only dealing with them. Like many island one of the boat boys was waiting for me many miles off shore asking if I needed a mooring or services. "No Thanks"
I arrived only minutes after the American flagged Oyster dropped anchor. I was about to anchor off his bow. While we were approaching the Oyster - Grace was calling a name in the cruising guide asking for assistance. When he dropped anchor there was a swarm of boat boys around his vessel. I dropped anchor and one came over and asked if i was interested in a river cruise and inland expedition. When I mentioned I was alone he lost interest immediately and left.
I pulled back on the anchor and it did not take so up it came. I did that three times in three different places. The wind was in excess of 20 knots and was swinging from side to side. I finally got the anchor to hold and was closing down the systems when lo and behold a American 50ft HR with a man and wife crew appeared in white tops blue shorts, PFD round their necks and the correctly fitted crouch strap dropped their anchor about 20 m off my bow. As they drifted astern in setting the anchor their stern was within 10 m of Malua. I said they were close but "No we will drift astern of you" "thanks pal that is not good enough in this type of wind" Now I seem to be able to get through to a French man who anchors on top of me but these Americans were something else. So I switched on the systems, started the engine and pulled up the anchor. Then the search began again for a secure holding.
After three more tries I found a spot but was not happy because If I drifted back I would swing over a mooring with a large cat on it. Any way it was time to go ashore and look around.
The Town of Portsmouth is clearly very poor. The main industry seems to be taxis and taking tourist for a ride. The shops and super markets had very very items in them except Angostura bitters - made of course in Trinidad but only $5 for a large bottle - now that is value.
I walked through the town and out into the country then returned to the beach which had only two very run down restaurants on it. Not very welcoming. I felt that Doyle had made a big show of a very run down average place. Not worth more than a few hours stay which was to be the case for Malua.
I cooked dinner and turned in as the wind settled and the rain came down. At about 4:50 in the morning a squall came through and Malua swung on her anchor. I got up and found we had dragged and i was now quite close to the moored catamaran.
It was time to move on. Dawn was only one hour or so away so I plotted a course for the Saints islands only 20 miles away, hoisted the main and set a course for the entrance between the islands Terre d'en Bas and Les Augustines knowing I would arrive well after it was light.
It was a great sail. The moon was still up and the wind had not come up.
At 0800 just when I had to do the MOzzie net I entered the passage and calmer waters. I had arrived.
A magical moment on Malua#