NORDLYS - The Kimberley

The Kimberley

NORDLYS

David and Annette Ridout

Wed 30 Aug 2006 08:20

On into the Kimberley Ranges

via the 'Gibb River Road'.

Kununurra

30th August 2006

How to begin, we have done so much and seen so many sights that trying to write them up in a way that will be interesting to the reader is a task I find some what daunting. Basically Karratha to Derby via Broome was just a lot of driving over flat featureless countryside. A delightful camp site behind the sand dunes of 80 mile beach was a highlight. After a walk of several miles up a beach to die for we sat in the sand dunes, drinks in hand watching the sun set over the Indian ocean. Derby is a small dusty town that had been known to me for many years as it is one of the main exit points for aircraft travelling from south east Australia to Singapore. As I used to cross over it five miles up in air-conditioned comfort little did I think that one day I would be camping by its waterside. Here we went to an Aboriginal settlement to see what we were promised was an interesting art gallery. I have to report a lot of very mediocre over priced stuff in a grim building that was surrounded by endless dirt and filth. The politically correct amongst you will have your hackles raised by now but hold on. We have visited Melanesian villages that have had not one hand out nor in fact any visiting supply ship for over a year and yet the dust streets were swept, the people were clean and there was an air of general happiness. None of this was present in the Aboriginal township.

The Gibb river Road is about 750km of dirt road that varies from being quite good to being very corrugated and stony. The biggest trouble is knowing what speed to go. 80kph is the best acknowledged speed for crossing corrugations but 40kph is the speed least likely to cause a blow out on the razor sharp rocks that litter most of the road. All I can say is that this morning when we left it behind us and reached metal road we were much relieved. How the vehicles stand up to the treatment that they get for miles on end I do not know. The working Toyotas we met were often many years and km old. Buying an ex Chelsea Tractor Prada must be a good bet! We managed not to have to use either of the two spare wheels we were carrying during the1025km we covered. This mileage was because we made several diversions off the road. The longest being to Old Mornington, some 90km up its own dirt track south of the Gibb. This is a 788,000 acre cattle ranch that is now owned by the Australian Wildlife Conservation, or AWC. The way these properties are owned is in itself an interesting situation. Apparently early in the 20th century, after WW1 the government was very keen to attract people north. Offering land cheaply did not do this so they offered 99 year leases for a $ on roughly million acre plots. The rules were that a homestead could be built, the land should be fenced and bore holes could be dug but otherwise no improvements were to be done to change the nature of the terrain. Cattle had to be purchased and left to 'grow' on the property. These are still the rules and the AWC which is trying to ascertain the effects cattle have on the habitat and more especially the fauna has to be careful as it has de cattled some of its property and the authorities are apparently not happy. They are hoping to change the rules. Old Mornington has two gorges and two billabongs that one can drive to and also many guided tours. Annette went on a bird tour from 0530 to 0930 and saw and learnt a lot from a very enthusiastic lady. Since she was the only taker for the tour she had one to one treatment. Another delight of the place was the food which was excellent and the wines considering were one was were not expensive. After one such dinner we were entertained to a very proffessional talk with slides as to what they were trying to study and achieve with their acreage. Our camp site by a creek was perfect and the dawn and dusk chorus of parrots, rosellas, cockatoos etc had to be heard to be believed. A final bonus was that we met several charming and interesting people there who came from Perth and some very genuine invitations for us to contact them later in the year were given. We are in fact having dinner tonight with one of the couples here in Kununurra.

Our final stay in the Kimberley was at El Questro. This million acre plot is now known for its tourist attractions more than for the cattle it raises. big brother is apparently watching the situation. Cattle production must not be allowed to lapse. The accommodation ranges from the Homestead at $1000 per night per person to ones own personal bush camp with no facilities except a loo for somewhat less. We camped. Below our site which was on its own down a 4WD track the river ran over boulders and sand. We were allowed a fire and our situation cannot have been much different from the cattle drivers of old in its surroundings. The clever thing about El Questro is that it is itself a complete provider of attractions. It boasts as fine a set of gorges as anywhere. Hot thermal pools, 4WD tracks ranging from a few km to one of 130km. Excellent walks and also a spectacular hours walk, or fifteen minute 4WD to the top of a hill the view from which was awe inspiring. Yes we did the walk option not the drive.

Going to these two stations was the nearest we got to seeing station life as nowadays most of the owner run stations are no longer operating. Some years ago the Aboriginal stockhands went on strike at the big Vesty Homestead. A piric victory for them ensued and since the owners were required to pay more for the labour and no account was taken into the complete lifestyle that the stock hands and their families received it became more sensible to simply use contract labour. Nowadays few locals are used rounding up the job being done by experts in helicopters who do it all under contract. Just as at home where so much arable farming is conducted in this way.

So after eight nights of roughing it we emerged this morning onto a metalled road and have taken up residence by a lakeside in a cabin for three nights. The real trouble with camping in such country is the dirt and dust. Not to mention the heat and the flies. For the last three days in particular it has been very hot during the day and not cooled down much at night. This has caused the fly population to blossom. We both feel however that we have had quite literally the experience of a life time and come away with a much more detailed knowledge of what this land is all about. As the locals would say 'you have just had 1000km of Kimberley massage'. This is the name given to the constant motion one gets implanted into one through the car's seat as you go over corrugations. For those of you who have never experienced this then think how when snorkelling over sand or even walking on a beach at low tide it is usual for the sand to be ridged. Expand this to anywhere from three to six inch ridges every foot to eighteen inches and add in a stone bed not a sand one and you will get some idea of what man and machine have to go through. There are graders out smoothing the corrugations but they face a loosing task. The natural state is apparently corrugated, not smooth!

In two days time we are due to go on a flight to the Bungle Bungles. We land there and go on a 4WD trip to visit some of the high lights before flying back. This out of the way area which was only discovered in the '80s is not on our route and so we feel that this extravagence is worth it as everyone we have met who has seen them says a visit one way or another is a must. Wait for the next report.

As usual a few pictures of 'life down under'.

Happy times

David and Annette