NORDLYS - Tanna, Vanuatu

Tanna, Vanuatu

NORDLYS

David and Annette Ridout

Mon 30 Aug 2004 23:11

Fiji to Vanuatu

Port Resolution, Tanna Island

Vanuatu

(ex New Hebrides)

29th August 2004

The weather in Fiji did not improve so we moved Nordlys across to Vuda Point marina on the 'mainland' of Viti Levu and enjoyed a week of getting things done, socialising and in Annette's case visiting a Mr Singh the local dentist. As I write a week after this visit the filling he put back in is still holding.

Leaving Fiji we felt mixed emotions. We had really enjoyed the place and its peoples but the constant unsettled and dull weather plus the two real storms we had meant that we were keen to escape the South Pacific Convergence Zone, or SPCZ as it is known. This and a front combined have sat stubbornly over the Fiji group for weeks now. Much to the disgust of the visiting yachties and the sugar cane farmers who were struggling to get their crop out of soaked fields to the mills.

Grey skies and a brisk twenty five knot wind out of the south east saw us beam reaching with the usual double reefed mainsail and many rolls in the genoa over a lumpy sea. Twenty four hours and one hundred and eighty miles later the sea state and the wind were the same but the sun was shining at last and most importantly the fridge was full of Mahe Mahe. Just as we were eating our lunch the reel started its screech. Between that and the fillets in the fridge there was much struggling as these fish fight. The ensuing blood bath on deck is never nice but the food it produces is lovely. There is little to beat fresh Mahe Mahe. Unfortunately I threw away the head which on arrival here we discovered is a delicacy for the locals

Progress was so good that we found ourselves due to arrive in Tanna about ten o'clock at night. The bay we were making for was needless to say unlit so we diverted some five miles off our course to the island of Futuna. This island is shaped like a top hat and rises some 660 meters out of the ocean. Apparently 450 people live a precarious life growing taro and other tropical crops. The few villages are reached by scrambling up and down narrow paths and scaling rope ladders made of bamboo poles lashed together with creepers. This we read in the guide book. It looked as if we could shelter for some hours in the lee of its massive bulk. The chart showed a very deep but possible anchorage in one bay. Sailing under the awesome mass of Futuna was worth the extra miles just for the views. There was no sign of man. Rounding the corner into the supposed lee we found the wind to be constantly funnelling down and round into said bay. When we were under one hundred meters off the shore there was still no bottom being recorded so the idea of a few hours rest was just that, a bad idea. Thus we unfurled the sails and ran off towards Tanna some thirty eight miles away. A blissful sail ensued. A full moon shone down from a cloudless sky making the night almost like daylight. Fifteen knots across the deck and Nordlys forging on at seven to eight across seas pleasantly flattened by the mass of Futuna. As we approached Tanna the active volcano for which it is known was in fine fettle and gave a marvellous display of exploding lava against the night sky. Arriving off Port Resolution we talked to our friends who were inside and they said they could see our lights and they gave us personally verified waypoints for the GPS so in we slowly came. The cliffs looked horribly near but it was an illusion of moonlight. The radar saying truthfully they were nearly half a mile away. The anchor dram tasted wonderful as we sat in the cockpit chatting to Tony who had come out in his dinghy to reassure us.

Today we joined most of the other crews from the eight boats here and were guests of one of the two local villages to a lunch time feast. I must confess that for me the food was almost inedible. Large chunks of pig fat in sauce and with Taro. Luckily I managed to share a plate with Annette and she bless her managed to eat most of it. I noticed several couples doing the same. The company both of the multi national sailors and the quiet, kind but proud locals made any shortcomings in the culinary department worth bearing. These communities are very poor but the children looked to be well nourished, as did everyone. There was little but palm and cane huts, a few pigs some dogs and chickens also two elderly ducks and little else in the way of possessions. Interestingly enough I managed to find out that their canoes are made out of the wood of the Bread Fruit tree. Their knowledge and use of the local crops was encyclopaedic as one might expect. Needless to say we all left them presents that ranged from tools to T shirts to sweet biscuits and also many balloons that Annette blew up and gave to the children. All were welcome but one came away not feeling that this bounty was why they laid on such a repast but that they were genuinely happy and proud to show us a bit of their lives.

Tomorrow we are info the two hour drive over the hills to Lenakel the only town on the island where we have to go to check in. Also it is here that we can change our $ into local currency and Monday is market day which promises to be interesting. On Tuesday we are hoping to get up to the active volcano which I mentioned earlier. Yachties who have been say it is an unforgettable experience. Nowadays the distance you have to keep away from the rim is greater than it was. Last year a Japanese visitor had his head blown off by a landing piece of magma. If Vanuatu continues as it has started our stay will be a pleasant one.

Happy times

David and Annette