New Zealand
NORDLYS
David and Annette Ridout
Sat 20 Nov 2004 23:00
Life at the other side of the world from
the UK
Great Barrier Island
20th November 2004
I am writing this anchored in Whangaparapara
Harbour on Great Barrier Island. The latter is some fifty miles from the
centre of Auckland out in the Hauraki Gulf. It is a rugged scenic island
that has just 1200 inhabitants for its 120 odd square miles. The feeling
is of isolation and beautiful scenery rather than of a tourist attraction.
So far we have done two walks, each of some four hours in duration and
climbs of over 400 meters. One took us up to an old Kauri
damn. This is a huge construction made in the early twentieth century to
enable men to get the Kauri trees down to the sea and to then float them to
Auckland for milling. The idea was to flood the steep sided valley in two
places. They then felled the trees down the hill sides and into the lakes
formed by the dams. Trip wires would then be pulled and the resulting
torrents would wash the huge tree trunks down to the sea. Bearing in mind
that the tree trunks were on average some eight meters in diameter
and usually over forty meters high and that the sea was over four
miles away you can see the result of letting the water go must have
produced a terrifying spectacle even if one was standing well above it
all. Nowadays we look back on this era and think of it as one of the worst
of pillages of our environment and natural resources. This does not
however minimise the fantastic feats that the lumber men achieved with nothing
more than man powered jacks and physical labour. Kauri is one of the
worlds most usable timbers. Hard, light for its durability and
strength, it grows in perfectly straight trunks with few and only small
branches. Today the only source is old tree roots which are turned into
small pieces of furniture. Felling of the few remaining large trees being
banned. New trees are growing but many years will pass before they
can be felled and all are in preservation areas. Much of the dam is still
there to see. I have been told I should build a small version in the
garden for our grandchildren when I get home. Actually this sounds rather
a fun idea if we end up with a water source.
So far we have been blessed by excellent weather
for Annalise Hamilton's visit. Blue skies and gentle winds even if the
temperature drops fast as the sun sets. We will potter around the Hauraki
Gulf area for another week then settle back into Auckland where several things
are to be done to the boat before we head north back to the Bay of Islands for
Christmas. It is here that Nick, Jenny and George will join
us.
I will now bring this webdiary to a temporary
end. I hope to start again about April 2005 when we will be
preparing for the passage back to Fiji. Having just read Ranulf Finnes
biography of Scott I realise that the weather does change in its severity from
year to year. Scott and his group perished in one of the worst autumns
from a weather point of view that has been recorded in Antarctica. We on a
much more humble note look forward, hopefully, to much kinder
weather than our last year in the islands of the south west
Pacific. Time will tell.
So dear readers may Annette and I wish you all a
very happy and enjoyable festive season and all the best for 2005. We
leave you with a few photos.
David and Annette
Remains of the Kauri dam. The hanging planks
were suddenly allowed to swing free letting the water,
which
rose to near the top of the highest remaining uprights,
flow out
with the kauri trees and on downsome four miles to the
sea
Whangaparapara Harbour Great Barrier Island
Waiting for the July 14th dancing. Wallis Island
2004
En passage Pacific 2004
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