Rain, rain and more rain
NORDLYS
David and Annette Ridout
Tue 8 Jun 2004 22:57
Life in the Kingdom of
Tonga
Neiafu, Vavau
group
9th June
2004
I have to be honest I am trying to think of
something positive to write about our second visit to Tonga. The real
reason for this is nothing to do with the country itself but due to the
weather. Jago and Claire arrived in great form from the Far East on the
29th May and since then we have had two decent days. The rest has been
strong winds and rain.
Leaving Nukualofa with our Norwegian friends in
their Swan 44 (new version) and an hour in front of Duet (RCC) we had a fast
furious reach to Kelefasia in the southern Haapai group of islands. As we
arrived the rain came down in buckets and visibility was very poor. After
some time with darkness about to fall we decided to have a go and managed
to see the breakers on the reef and find our way in. Alas the anchorage
was very turbulent as although protected from the prevailing SE wind the SW
swell was finding its way in. Invited to dinner on Duet we had to
decline as it was no time to get into a dinghy. One of my most
uncomfortable nights on Nordlys followed and at dawn we announced to the others
we were leaving. Another fast furious close reach and we were, all three
of us, in Haafeva a much more enclosed anchorage off a village further up
the chain. On both of these sails it gave us some pleasure to see how we
were quite considerably faster than our more modern sister and that Duet a
lovely one off aluminium go fast machine was unable to catch us even on a
reach. Sorry not cruising talk!
Next morning after a visit to the local
village and time spent at the school with the children we were invited for lunch
next day by a charming 'lady man'. These males playing female are a
feature of Polynesian life that I have explained before. Saia however did
not cross dress but layed on a very interesting meal for us. None of us
had any tummy troubles despite the very basic condition of his
'kitchen'.
With no promise of improving weather we decided to
cut and run and made our way overnight to the Vavau group. We arrived at
what should have been first light but due to heavy cloud and rain we were using
radar and electronic charts to enter this maze. The nature of these
islands is different as they are high so they provide lots of secure
anchorages. Now as I write this we have been here several days have
managed two dives for Claire and Jago and one night away from the main
town. However with so much unsettled weather and the whole boat becoming a
breeding ground for nasty green stull, otherwise known as mould, we are
back off Neiafu and have enjoyed a comparatively peaceful night.
Annette and Claire are ashore with the washing and a trip to the market
planned. For ourselves we are not worried but it is hard on our two
younger visitors who were looking forward to some pleasant sailing and island
exploration which we have been unable to provide them with. They are
however very upbeat and brains are being put to try and understand the rules of
Marjong. Several times the complicated version of Spider Solitaire has
been successfully got out. I always assumed that many years of solitary
imprisonment with a computer was necessary to do that!
I write the above not in any way to bemoan our lot,
in Fiji there have been floods and many people made homeless, but so that those
of you in less extreme climates can see that not all is paradise in
paradise. I have managed to secure some fresh heart of palm however!
My machete is in active use.
Happy times to you all.
The Crew of Nordlys
Saia's mother and aunts
Dining with Saia. Claire sandwiched by the owners of
Embla