I am writing this after some ten days in these lovely islands.  We have driven in a four wheel drive over the top of Fatu Hiva to Omoa.  We have eaten twice in  Polynesian homes.  We have visited Hiva Oa and seen Gauguin's grave, we have dropped our hook in several anchorages on the island of Tahuata and we have swum in some of the clearest water I have ever seen.

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Impressions.  Firstly we have been rather shocked at the number of yachts here.  The Marquesas are at one of the cruising crossroads and this is the prime time of year for passages this way.  Nevertheless to sail three thousand miles to a dot on the atlas and find some anchorages full is a bit of a surprise.

Secondly the relative lack of interest that the locals show in any form of activity that requires effort comes across strongly.  Thirdly the quite outstanding beauty of these islands is awe inspiring.  The nearest that I can get by way of description is the West Coast of Scotland in the tropics.  I remember reading about Loch Scavaig, an anchorage under the Cullin mountains of the Isle of Skye, as being 'second only to the anchorage off the village on Fatu Hiva'.  Nordlys has now been to both these places and I think the comparison is very apt.

Much has been written about the French tenancy of Polynesia and in many ways it is summed up by the war memorial in Atuona, capital of Hiva Oa, to a few Marquesian Frenchmen who died in the war.  There is no memorial to the thousands of Polynesian Marquesians who died at the hands of the white man. 

We are only a third of our way through our visit to these islands and I will write again about them when we have absorbed more of the atmosphere.

So far as life on board Nordlys is concerned we are all enjoying ourselves to the full even if the email  has alas brought news of a death and a marriage a break up.  Surrounded as we are by so much strange beauty Lymington really does seem to be another world away.  There have been some great parties both on Nordlys and other yachts.  The skipper is reported to have been seen dancing with some 'fantastic mover' much younger than himself while he was wearing a blond wig!  More details have been forgotten.

To quote Hugh Marriott, 'oh no not poisson cru again'.  These are very much our feelings as we have all three of us had 24/48 hours of tummy trouble after a meal ashore which of course included said dish.

Here are a few pictures of life in paradise.

The Fatu Hiva Phalli that the missionaries objected to. 

 

Dressed against NoSeeUms the mate plays to

the dolphins that were surrounding us.

 

Happy times to you all,

David Annette and Christabel