news are very welcome to us. nordlys (at) mailasail.com

 

 

'The Kingdom of Tonga' conjures up visions of Queen Salote at the coronation for most of my age group.  This huge lady caused quite a sensation when she attended the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II.  Now we were sailing fast towards one of the Tonga islands.  The country is divided into four groups and the Niuas are the northern most.  Dawn was not yet gracing the eastern sky when in the moonlight I saw the loom of Tafahi island.  This is an extinct volcano that rises 657 meters out of the ocean.  Again without radar to back up the GPS I decided to heave to and wait for more light.  As the welcome sun rose the two main islands that make up the Niuatoputapu group were fully revealed and we sailed towards the pass over a deep blue sea that was liberally covered with white caps as the force six easterly blew us along.  Suddenly a  cry went up from Annette, we were then treated to a great display of whales breaching and flapping their huge pectoral fins.  Never that near us they were however within two miles so waiting for the light to give us safe entry was no chore.  The lagoon we entered was bordered on its southern and eastern side by the 18 square km island and on its northern and western by a reef.  We anchored in 8 meters on sand feeling really safe and snug for the first time in weeks.  The flat sea being much appreciated after the rolly anchorage of Niue and we were protected from any wind direction.  As an added bonus we were again anchored just behind David Mitchell in Ondarina.  While we had been in Niue he had visited Samoa. 

 

Our week in this anchorage went very fast.  Fairly popular with yachts these days, there were eight anchored when we arrived and never less than five while we were there, the people of the island are still very friendly to seaborne visitors  and making contact was a real pleasure.  After the apparent affluence of Niue this was very much third world.  The baker in his shack and its huge wood fired furnace, the clinic and its basic dental equipment, birthing equipment and so on told of a simple existence.  The only way for the 1300 people to make money is to produce the woven mats that are then sold all over the area.  For the first time we saw men in skirts and ladies with large mats tied round their ample hips.  Not many could equal my memory of Queen Salote but the Tongans are large.  One day we made a trip across the five miles of sea to Tafahi island.  This was achieved in a local fishing launch.  Niko, his five year old son and two local teenagers plus us three and  David Mitchell and an American friend, Cary made up the crew.  Half way across we all began to realise that this was to be far from a casual trip.  We were all soaked and but for the skill of Niko and the furious bailing of one of the two teenagers  we might  well have got even nearer the water than we were.  Needless to say none of us had thought to bring life jackets or a radio.  We crossed the five mile gap beam on to the strong trade winds and seas.  I say no more.  Once on dry land a certain amount of brittle joking took place and having dried ourselves we set off with a local lad as guide to the summit.  Passing through the only village we ascended past a series of rough plantations.  The going was steep and the path only barely seen.  The guide went far too fast and for the two ladies particularly the going was a struggle.  Two very sweaty hours later we were rewarded by magnificent views and all the earlier cursing was forgotten.  At one stage we passed a large number of flying foxes hanging in the trees.  The descent, by another route, took us through the very verdant old crater and down seemingly near vertical slopes.  The return across the straight was just as hair raising and for some the mental stress was raised by the cargo.  Two small pigs, legs tied up, were thrown into the bilge.  Tomorrows lunch at the pig roast  which was being produced by locals on a nearby motu for all the yachts.  Annette and I celebrated our thirty third wedding anniversary in a restaurant on an island that is reached by wading at low water and by dinghy at high.  We were each given a present of a necklace made of shells that are unique to Tafahi island.  In this sort of activity the week went far too fast and more time could easily have been spent amongst these lovely people.

 

The day we left five yachts headed south.  The wind made it at first a fetch then a beat.  Only two of us sailed all the way and we logged 203 miles to achieve 160.  Cary and Sara on their 61 footer beat us by 3 miles.  Two of the others motored into the force five breeze, good luck to them, and one small boat got in 6 days later.  She was a gaff cutter of about thirty feet.  Arriving off Neiafu in the Vava'u group was like being back in the Caribbean.  Buoys to tie to, at least fifty yachts in this one anchorage, the VHF going like mad and several very pleasant watering holes on the seafront plus Moorings and Sunsail charter outfits.  All in its own way very pleasant but a big shock after, Penrhyn, Suwarrow, Niue and Niuatopatapu.  The next two and a bit weeks passed very enjoyably.  We sailed to several of the many anchorages this group of islands provides.  Cary and I dived several times.  We snorkelled into two caves, we went whale watching and swam with a mother and her calf.  One Friday we were persuaded to take Nordlys in for a local evening race which with the help of the three very keen American crew  who had done the persuading we managed a class win.  Fifteen minutes before the start the front dorade cowl was caught and thrown overboard by the sheet.  Before I could react, with one movement Bill, an American, whipped off his glasses took his walet out of his pocket and dived in.  At the helm I saw the cowl about five feet underwater and then Bill catching it.  Man overboard drill worked well and we started with one wet crewman right on time and crossed the fleet!  The evening after this ended at two am!  There was much socialising with yachts that we had met all across the Pacific and we only managed to scratch the cruising  potential of this island group.

 

Here a big decision was made.  The Ha'apai Group, which lies some sixty miles south of Vava'u, is known for its beautiful but not very protected anchorages.  Also for its friendly and simple villages.  A very tempting destination.  However time was getting on and we decided to sail past and come back next season to this whole area.  I have to admit to many reasons for this decision and one of them is that by now we have been on the go  for over a year tackling new, not always easy ground, and Annette and I feel a bit 'Islanded out'.  We want to give the Ha'apai what they deserve.  Time and a fresh enthusiasm.  Thus we cast off from anchorage 16, yes all anchorages in the Vava'u group are numbered not named, and sailed  south with the Ha'apai on our east side and a range of volcanoes and volcanic reefs on our west side.  With sheets mostly just eased, one and sometimes two reefs in we averaged over seven knots for the 160 miles to Nuku'alofa on Tongatapu island.  This is the capital and main industrial base of Tonga.  Having checked in with customs yesterday in a filthy office in a very dreary area of the docks we have retreated across the lagoon to anchor behind a small motu with one bar/restaurant and the promise of some interesting snorkelling on a wreck on one end of the beach.  On Monday we will tackle town and take a tour as the Lonely Planet guide recommends.

 

For the last few weeks the temperature has been falling and we now use blankets at night and light snugs on night watches.  The sea is down to 25 degrees C.  We do not ask for sympathy but it is a big change after over a year of tropical heat.  Rather nice actually.  Our plan is to set sail south in just under a weeks time.  We will stop in the North Minerva reef if the onward forecast is doubtful and experience this reef atoll with no actual land on it in the middle of nowhere.  Then we will set sail for the 800 mile trip south.  Before this the cool weather gear will be got out.  Nordlys will be prepared for all weathers and for the first time in over a year the dinghy will be deflated.  Watch this space for the story of the last great passage of the year. 

 

Tomorrows lunch

 

 

Returned safely, Tafahi in background

 

Journey down Tafahi

 

Happy times to all our readers

David, Annette and Christabel