33 Flores and Horta
The strong
north westerly wind we thought would take us to Horta never materialised and the
best we could do was to continue to the northeast. According to the forecasts there was no
wind to the east of us and, with little diesel, we had to keep sailing
-somewhere. The present track was
going to take us well north and to the west of Horta and, in 24-36 hours, it
looked as though the wind evaporated, which would make it tricky getting back to
Horta on Faial. However, the
freshening south-easterly breeze was now taking us in the direction of Flores,
the most westerly of the Azores. I
emailed the harbour office to give an ETA and say that we needed diesel and some
food supplies. We
arrived off the harbour of Flores 39:22.74N 31:09.94W around 7pm on June
1st and were asked to anchor in a tiny bay just outside the inner
harbour but reasonably protected from the south-easterly weather and swell by
the outer breakwater. The inner
harbour, still recovering from storm damage in 2019 was packed with yachts
three-deep on the walls. The outer
breakwater, by the way, was a shattered mess of jumbled concrete blocks -some
the size and weight of houses - which had borne the brunt of the 2019
storm. We anchored overnight and
Brian produced his egg-fried rice dish -which he had been promising- with our
last three eggs – almost the last food that wasn’t rice. When I said ‘tiny bay’, I was not
exaggerating, there was just room to swing one yacht around an anchor with
appropriate chain scope. In the
evening, lying head to wind, our stern seemed very close to the beach, and it
was a good job the tidal rise and fall was less than a meter. There were vast cliffs opposite the
inner harbour and sea birds nesting there squabbled and chattered all night but
we had no problem sleeping. In the
morning, with no wind, we had swung 180o and our stern seemed, to me, very close
to the rock armour boulders on the end of the inner harbour mole. After breakfast we got the working jib out of the sail locker where it had been crudely stuffed the previous evening, and folded and rolled into a sensible size, so that we could extricate the inflatable dingy. Before inflating the dinghy to get ashore, I radioed the harbour office to ask if there were any developments that would allow us to berth along-side for diesel, and the harbour master asked us to wait 30 minutes as a couple boats were leaving and he was going rearrange things to make us a space. The man was a hero: we moved in and tied up; meanwhile he had ordered 80 litres of diesel to be delivered in cans and, while we waited for this to arrive, a charming lady police officer, seemingly not older than about 12 years (we are getting old) checked our passports. The police officer was impressed that I could give the boat dimensions in Portuguese numerals which are about the limit of my Portugese. With fuel and formalities completed, the harbour master, a retired yacht delivery skipper, drove us to the supermarket to shop. On the way back to the harbour we could take in our surroundings – a beautiful, unspoilt island very reminiscent of some of the remote Hebrides. Walking down the hill we found a restaurant/bar for a late second breakfast followed by an early lunch. Everyone, from the harbour staff to the police and other customers in the bar/restaurant, were so genuinely friendly and helpful. Leaving at
around 3:30 pm on the 2nd, we motor-sailed for 30 hours to Horta 38:32.03N
28:37.28W in next to no wind, arriving late in the evening on the 3rd
to find the marinas full and about 80 yachts at anchor inside the
breakwater. We joined the anchored
yachts. The harbour master here was overwhelmed by the number of yachts
descending on Horta, and completely unable to give me any idea when we might get
an along-side berth to enable us to lower our forestay and replace the
furler. On Sunday morning, the 4th,
we went ashore to deal with the harbour formalities and immigration and take
showers. Then we found our way to
the legendary Peter’s Bar for a (slightly) early pint of beer followed by a
large, cooked breakfast each. We
walked out to the nearby whaling station museum (closed on Sundays) in the
afternoon and climbed a good way up a volcanic mound to a church with great
views over the port. We ate
ashore in the evening in the most soulless, inefficient, hotel restaurant
imaginable and reflected on how fish of the day in Flores is a substantial meal,
comprising a whole fish, whereas fish of the day in this restaurant was a sad
little fillet of some small, indeterminate fish perched on a bed of ratatouille
with three small boiled potatoes along-side – and felt
cheated. On Monday
morning I was waiting outside the shop for MAYS (Mid Atlantic yacht Services) to
open and to contact Duncan, the proprietor, who had a new furler available for
me. Unfortunately, the weather was
due to freshening up on Tuesday/Wednesday, and would be no good for rigging
work, and besides, because of the weather, no one was leaving so there was no
berth available anyway. We did do
some exploring, made further enquiries with the port office about a berth on the
harbour wall – but they directed me back to the marina office who said, ‘come
back on Wednesday’. We ate on board
on Monday night and then set anchor watches through the night as the wind gusted
up into the 20s. At the moment, Tuesday 6th, I’m watching us, and other yachts, swing around our anchors to varying degrees in 20-30 knots of wind. We moved anchorage this morning to get more space and succeeded in extricating our anchor without clatting any of the anchored boats close up wind. I’m more relaxed now with a bit more space and tonight the wind is due to go lighter. I’m pleased not be at sea but I guess we would deal with it if we had to. I’m hoping to prevail on the harbour authorities for an alongside berth on Thursday and Friday to replace the furling gear.
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