We gently motor sailed up the east coast of Sardinia staying a safe distance from the rocky shoreline but close enough to enjoy the scenery as crags gave way to miles of sandy beaches only to become harsh headlands again before the next stretch of idyllic turquoise water and white sand.  The weather was perfect, making anchoring for the nights an easy option.  Approaching Arbatax, Oboe’s Mediterranean home when we were back in England a few weeks back, even then we stayed outside the marina and discovered a side to the dusty, industrial little town that we had not seen before.  We anchored in a beautiful bay – Port Frailis, crowded with holiday makers and boasting a hotel terrace and a couple of pizzerias.  Pedalos floated inquisitively passed and little children waved.  One Frenchman, with his young daughter swam out and hung from our anchor chain to catch their breath.  He explained that he was teaching his daughter about boats and this was her “ anchor” lesson!

We made the decision to head for Rome, a 24 hour passage east across the Tyrrhenian  Sea.  So into Arbatax marina for a night to take on groceries, fuel and water and midday saw us slipping away.  Little were we to know the delights in store as night fell.  Tuna jumping, dolphin chasing, phosphorescence lighting up our wake; stars, planets and the milky way lighting up the sky.  To say nothing of the endless shower of shooting stars.  But in particular, the milky way; I doubt if it will ever appear as bright again, casting a distinct reflection on the flat seas.  It left us in awe and short of words.

Porto di Roma didn’t appear on the horizon until we were almost on top of it and by now it was lunchtime of the following day.  In Sardinia we are used to seeing land 40 miles out because of the high mountains but the coast around Rome is very low-lying, so much so that it seems a small surge of water would flood it and turn it back into the mosquito-infested marshes that marked the area in Roman times – just south of us, The Pontine Marshes are still in evidence.

The marina is modern and busy with Italian holiday makers, especially in the evening when families, young couples and “gangs” of teenagers descend on the ½ mile long strip of shops, bars and restaurants that line the artificial beach inside the marina.  It buzzes as only August in Italy in the sun can.  Gallons of ice cream are consumed by young and old, slices of pizza are served “to go” and children roam un-tethered till late in the night.  Questo porto e tipico della Italia ...

Roma beckons and we head for a bus to get to a train to cross over to the subway to pop out at The Spanish Steps and all for 2 Euros!  We walk our feet off all day and get the measure of the city – Trevi fountain, Pantheon, Villa Borghese, Colosseum and a plethora of excavations stretching the length and breadth of the city. A stroll in the Roman Forum, bus top views of churches filled with a Michelangelo statue of Moses, a Madonna by Sassoferrato, relics of St Peter and St Paul, kept in silver containers.  The Scala Santa, stairs said to have been climbed by Jesus on a visit to Pontius Pilate.  Rome wasn’t built in a day and can’t be appreciated in a day either...

Follow our progress here:

http://blog.mailasail.com/oboe, where you can see our daily progress on Google Earth.  Email us at: oboe {CHANGE TO AT} mailasail {DOT} com any time you like.  Phone us on +881 631 669 194 and we’ll pick up via Iridium satellite.

Fair winds to you all.

Nigel

Gill