18:26.45N 64:45.90W Whales off the Port Beam

Oboe D'Amore's Web Diary
Nigel Backwith
Wed 4 Feb 2009 17:24

Yes, it’s Monday morning and we are sailing hard on the wind under full sail, occasionally dumping the kicker as the gusts heel us over at an uncomfortable angle – wouldn’t want to spill the coffee after all!  We are leaving Manchineel Bay, home of the Cooper Island Resort bound for the island of Virgin Gorda, home of the Bitter End Resort – oh life’s a beach!  Suddenly, off the port beam a massive tail rises from the waves and splashes down.  Big grey plumes of spray blow high in the air, signaling the presence of a whale.  No, not one but two small whales, possible a mother and baby splashing playfully in water.  We watch mesmerized for several minutes as the pair give us a demonstration of strength and power as they leap head first and then tail first right out of the water – Wow!  Nigel has seen whales at a distance before but always dreamed of a close up and here at last his dream came true.

 

1530 and we are tied up off The Bitter End, where we venture ashore to re-familiarise ourselves with the resort facilities.  Trevor reserves his usual table for the evening.  A New York Strip steak awaits him.  Nigel, exhausted from the emotion of sighting the whales, collapses on his bed and into a deep sleep.  Apart from a nightcap in the pub with Marcus he remains there till dawn.

 

Tuesday we planned to go to the Dogs – a group of rocks promising great reef snorkeling and then on to the Baths, another rock formation, this one offering a series of cave like passages to be explored.  The wind direction and strength spoiled these however and we sailed on by, anchored in a safe haven for a rather extensive buffet lunch and eventually ventured on to the spot voted as the “top spot” by crew and guests alike – Marina Cay and another dose of Michael Bean’s Pirate musical act – arrr!  We flew the big red cruising chute downwind for a couple of hours to the delight of all.  Crossing the Atlantic this sail had been renamed the “Red Table Cloth” by Mike, our racer on board – very rude if you ask me!  But I did have to admit gracefully that the Big Blue Beast, our full spinnaker was a much faster down wind option!

 

Wednesday and after another night of childish Pirate humour we head for Jost Van Dyke island again, beginning to think about leaving the idyllic BVI’s and simply wanting to revisit favourite spots before the challenging overnight passage south later in the week.

 

May the wind be at your back!

 

Nigel