Day 59 Fri 13 July Loch Harport to Loch Dunvegan
Vega was still in position at anchor when we arose this morning. We had booked for the 1015 tour of Talisker Distillery, so we downed our muesli and dinghied ashore in time. The tour was excellent, guide by a nice young lass who gave a very clear account of the workings of the distillery. Several interesting facts emerged, including that (like Tobermory) the recent dry weather (eat your hearts out you drenched southerners!) has meant that the water in the burn which is used to cool the distillate has dried up and slowed production to a low level. The tour actually started rather than finished with a wee dram at 10am, which has given Ian some ideas for the future! The tour ended with some purchases of the Wine of the Country, including the special edition "57North", a blend which represents the latitude of the Distillery, the alcohol percentage of the vintage, and, er, the price!
We stopped at the Old Inn for coffees and our first reliable email and blog communication for some days, a welcome catch-up, and headed back to Vega in the dinghy. We finally sailed off our anchor (sailed, note!) at 1315, after all the rest of the fleet had left - last again. We sailed down Loch Harport and out to the Little Minch and round to the north along the northwest coast of Skye. We sailed on (reefed) in wind gusting to F6, passing the spectacular scenery of western Scotland, with the west Skye cliffs soaring to over 300metres. As we passed the Mibow Rocks, Neist Point and approached Dunvegan Head we watched gannets make their dramatic dives, and elegant terns wheeling and skimming the water. Before Dunvegan Head the sea was distinctly bumpy and the wind was now on the nose, and for a time we motor-sailed. Just inside the Loch we were able to run down under Genoa, and after passing the splendid Dunvegan Castle, we found the anchorage at the head of the Loch with several Maltsters already here, and anchored with no difficulty. With the strong wind and the late hour making a run ashore unattractive, we dined aboard on chilli con carne. It seemed only fitting that we should start on our recent purchases, so we indulged in some Caol Ila, followed by a more or less improvised ceilidh, going through most of the Scots and Irish songs we know, Benj on guitar, David on recorder, and Ian (reluctantly but effectively) on vocals, read straight from his iPad. A late and noisy night at 0100!