Woolly weather in the final approaches

A year afloat: to the Caribbean and back
Sam and Alex Fortescue
Mon 15 Aug 2011 11:55
46:53.53N
013:31.16W
 
The woolly hats are on for the first time in over a year. So are the gloves and scarves, while First Mate Biffle has actually been sighted wearing three jerseys. There's what I would describe as an autumnal nip in the air if we weren't still mid-August and 300 miles from the mainland. It changed quite suddenly overnight two days ago - after the nasty 24 hours of heinous chop and northerly wind. I suppose it means that we're in a current of chill northerly wind blowing down from the icy wastes of Iceland, Greenland and the like.
 
In any case, we're hoping things aren't this chilly in Blighty, or it's going to take me weeks to emerge from my first hot bath. There's a chance that we've been over-sensatised to cold weather by a year in the tropics.
 
We had a spell of calm yesterday as we motored across the centre of the ridge of high pressure extending from the Azores to Brittany. The wind dropped to three knots and the sea calmed down. It was warm in the sun and we donked for about 12 hours. Then, as my watch ticked down to 1am, the wind returned and we were able to get the sails up and the engine off. For a couple of hours, we made serene progress, gliding over smooth seas which gurgled encouragingly a few inches from my ear as I lay in fo'c'sle trying to sleep.
 
This morning, though, the seas are on their way back up and we have about 20 knots of wind - happily from the southwest this time, so we're on a fast run. We're expecting to keep these conditions until tomorrow, when the situation is overtaken by another feeble high and we end up beating into a surprise northeasterly. If we're lucky, we'll fetch the Channel; if not, we'll find ourselves heading hard for La Rochelle.
 
Morale on board is high - particularly after yesterday's halfway party. We feasted on crisps, dip and homemade pina colada. And, as at all the best parties these days, we played Scrabble and we're tucked up in bed by 8pm. Even Elise enjoyed it, so it can't just be that we're getting old...
 
With just 375 miles between us and the Lizard, it seems that we really are almost home now. Thoughts are very much turning to reunions on Poole Town Quay and plans the first days back at home. It is hugely exciting to think we'll soon be back, but as the real world gets closer, I can't help missing the carefree days in the Caribbean. I'm not looking forward to dealing with bills and banks and train timetables again.