Where the frigate birds soar
A year afloat: to the Caribbean and back
Sam and Alex Fortescue
Thu 13 Jan 2011 13:47
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We're still on the track of Tilly Mint (my brother
Alex's boat) from last winter. We're now anchored up in Bequia after an
exceedinhly sploshy sail up from Tobago Cays. We went for a tour of the island
in an openbacked truck yesterday, and our guide told us that this was considered
'bad' weather. The sun is relentless, the wind is constant and the seas are a
bit choppy. If this is bad, then what the devil is good? It must be like skating
over a smooth, flat lake.
We're in Admiralty Bay, the smoothest anchorage on
the island and the location of the main town, Port Elizabeth. The water even
here, with ferries plying a busy route to neighbouring St Vincent is
turquoise-clear, and Andy swims in to the bakery on the shore every morning with
a dry bag to buy coconut bread. Despite hundreds of yachts in the bay, and the
island's status as a yottin' mecca (all the Scandinavians on the ARC made a
beeline here for Christmas), the many bars and restos on the island seem
curiously empty, and the locals reluctant to engage in any sort of trading
activity, be it cooking or guiding. There is, however, a thriving market for
'ganga', which maybe explains this curious reticence.
We spent yesterday afternoon idling on Princess
Margaret beach, so called because the controversial lady herself once dipped her
toe in the water there. It is the sort of palm fringed Caribbean affair that
we've only come across a couple of times, and made a great way to lounge. It was
also peppered with almonds, fallen from huge trees with great waxy leaves. My
knowledge of the natural world leaves me floundering here, but could it be that
the almonds we eat at Christmas come from Caribbean shores?
Tobago Cays - Worlds End Reef
   Andy eyeballing the horizon
   Local fast food - jerk chicken
 Old Hegg turtle sanctuary
 Bequia tour
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