Day 17 Baie De St Augustine Madagascar
Misterx
Wed 27 Nov 2024 06:43
27/11/24
9:00 am
Day 17
Baie de St Augustine - Madagascar
DTD to Richard's Bay SA tbc
The cliffs in front of us are about 150 m high and it looks like chalk, with sparse shrubs all the way up. I can see little trails going up the ridge. Following one of them leads me to a little cemetery, the white crosses glinting in sunshine. So there it is, the Christian burial place. there are also other votive structures up another trail, again painted white. And 2 towers keeping watch on these. What i would give to go and explore theses trails! And see the view from the ridge, on both sides. We are at the mouth of a river, quite big one by all account, the amount of debris and the colour of it a rich brown speaks of fertile lands. The bay opening up at the end of the river is dotted with villages from where all the little crafts hail from. Our village on our nearest beach is obviously a major crossroad... everyone converge there and then spread out from here to the 4 winds!
After the parade of square ragged sails of the early morning yesterday, I managed to dragged myself away from the spectacle onshore with great difficulty. Needed to do a bit of clearing up and cleaning. All went very well till the music and the clamour of the crowd got me topside again later in the afternoon. The whole village is marching on the beach towards the cliff, kids galloping at the front, a colourful ribbon sneaking on the sand. They are meeting 2 pirogues, obviously carrying important people. They are riding pirogues with an engine and they are wearing bright orange life jackets! I can also see a flag blue with a wave on it. After much clapping and cheering from the crowd, and without the 2 pirogues touching land, the whole column of people turned round and went back to the village along the shore, chanting all the way. The VIPs finally disembarked and everyone followed them inside what looked like the village hall for a party that went on all night from what we could hear!
The sea state worsen during the day and it wasn't very pleasant for a good chunk of the afternoon. By sunset, things had calmed down and we were able to meet up with our marooned companions for dinner... some people had been extremely lucky with the fishing on the way up and it was just delicious! I do love these impromptu gatherings, the stories and the sharing of food and experiences.
The parade of pirogues this morning was not as impressive as yesterday, more wind and a choppy sea made for a less picturesque view, a hazy morning. Plus there was not as many boats zooming around... my guess, a lot of people were having a lie in after the party that went on late into the morning.
With the the blow probably reaching us later today or even during the night, we thought is prudent to move a bit closer to the cliff and out of the mouth of the river this morning. We found a spot in 5 m of water, which will be better. Although worryingly the chart is showing us on the rocks!! And much closer to shore!!! My eyes won't strain so much through the binoculars to see what is going on shore side!!!